56 AFOOT THROUGH THE 



stream. If the unwary passenger attempts to make 

 use of it, it opens out in the middle ; if a high tide comes 

 down, it waits not to struggle for mastery, but departs 

 bodily. Ponies have the sense while passing over to 

 stretch their legs as far as possible, so as to distribute 

 the weight. Soon after noon I reached Atchibal, 

 another summer halting-place of the Moguls. There a 

 palace of the usual type was built of chunam and stone, 

 with a wealth of wooden lattice work and miniature 

 editions to be used as summer-houses, distributed about 

 the gardens, so that in the hottest w r eather the ladies 

 could find coolness, and slumber peacefully, soothed by 

 the sound of the rushing waters. The springs were 

 innumerable, and were cleverly directed so as to fill 

 the stone conduits flowing round the gardens, and 

 feeding the numerous fountains which, on State 

 occasions, were used to flood the terraces; coloured 

 lights illuminating the waters and adding to the gaiety 

 of the scene. When I arrived, I thought some lineal 

 descendant of those old rulers must have returned again 

 and be holding high revel. Hundreds of coolies, 

 " kahars " (porters), grooms, shikaris were collected 

 together in large camps; ponies innumerable, in 

 gorgeous trappings, were picketed out; a vast range 

 of small white peaks showed a big encampment inside 

 the gardens, and the hurrving of gaudily badged 



<~J t/ C-> <_> \J O 



chuprassis (official messengers, lit. badge-bearers) told 

 me that unusual " company " was about. The chowkidar 

 (watchman and caretaker) of the rest-house could only 

 tell me that Burra Sahibs and Shazadas (big lords and 

 princes) were there, and as he made ready for me tea 

 served in fine china, and real " double roti " (English 

 bread, only to be got in Srinagar), I felt convinced that 



