KASHMIR VALLEYS 63 



arcading, and delicate mauve and white iris, with their 

 graveyard associations, bring a thought of human decay 

 and the passing of all flesh into the temple of light and 

 life. This lonely " watcher on the mountain-side," 

 turned away from the rising towards the setting sun, 

 has waited and witnessed to the everlasting power of 

 light and beauty through long ages, while alternate 

 waves of anarchy and progress swept through the 

 valley. Powers have risen, fought, suffered annihila- 

 tion, attempting to overwhelm this silent preacher of 

 truths older, stronger than they, and it has withstood 

 all their efforts, defied all their attempts, though 

 suffering severely in its long defiance, and to-day it 

 stands out still, unnoticed, uncared for, by the people 

 of the land dependent for existence on a race who know 

 not its founder, regard not its gods, and long after they 

 and the memory of them have faded away, this lone 

 monument will keep its vigil and set forth its silent 

 teaching of endurance and courage, of beauty in 

 strength, and steadfastness in the setting forth of ideals. 

 There was much of curious antiquarian interest 

 about Martand, exquisite details of carving and orna- 

 ment, strange fragments so Greek in character that they 

 appeared to have wandered of themselves from their 

 natural birthplace. All these things I noticed in 

 perfunctory fashion, and hoped some day to realise. At 

 the time it was enough to suck up, sponge fashion, all 

 that could be realised of grace and beauty, storing the 

 memory with details of that wonderful view extending 

 one hundred miles down the river and sixty miles to the 

 further side, with a background of crystalline heights 

 a world of blue and white, fit setting for the glorious 

 sun temple. 



