84 AFOOT THROUGH THE 



are a race apart, noted for their looks, which are in 

 striking contrast to those of the men, who are dark 

 and squat. They wore, too, a much more becoming 

 costume than most native women. The long, loose 

 trousers were of dull blue cotton with coloured stripes, 

 the tunic of the same, and the curious high head-dress of 

 blue material resembling much in form the headgear of 

 the Pharaohs as depicted in their monuments, while 

 round their necks were countless ornaments and neck- 

 laces, composed for the most part of coloured and silver 

 beads, cowrie shells, and tassels of cloves. The wearers 

 were much amused by my scrutiny, and returned my 

 curiosity with interest, making apparently great jokes 

 at my expense. Most of the men I met, either escorting 

 herds or long trains of merchandise, or the baggage of 

 sporting Sahibs, were of the distinct Mongolian type, very 

 short, flat-faced, and swarthy. They were clothed entirely 

 in sad-coloured puttoo, even to their loose shoes and 

 caps, which, in general form, resembled quaintly those 

 generally used by Frenchmen while travelling, having a 

 queer peak in front and a turn-up brim at the back, 

 and were ornamented with large bunches of the snow 

 primulas tucked away behind the ears. The hair was 

 worn either plaited into a minute pig-tail just reaching 

 the neck, or frizzled out on each side of the face. Many 

 of these hardy little porters had yaks instead of ponies 

 or mules, and splendid baggage carriers these unwieldy 

 looking animals make, with their bull heads and cob- 

 like bodies. No amount of snow frightens them, and 

 they are capable of keeping their footing on the roughest 

 track though heavily laden, and, like elephants, are very 

 careful of themselves, testing each step when on unsafe 

 ground, and they make good though rough mounts 

 when dangerous places have to be traversed. 



