96 AFOOT THROUGH THE 



pointed stick, and a thick coat strapped across my back. 

 The sun was at first so warm that my impedimenta 

 were rather a trial, but the path was easy through 

 gently undulating grasslands, dotted about with count- 

 less snow primulas, anemones, and in sheltered spots 

 the pretty spotted kumaon iris, and fritillaries. Peace- 

 fully the Sind pursued its way, its waters a milky blue 

 from the melted snows that had joined its stream. 



The huge snow bridges had in places been broken 

 through ; in others they were still standing solid piles, 

 twenty to forty feet deep. From here, while they are 

 still passable, there is a possible route to the famous 

 Amarnath, a sacred place of pilgrimage where the god 

 Siva is worshipped with many curious rites by such 

 pilgrims as are able to brave the difficulties of the path 

 and reach the frozen cave, a journey that can only be 

 accomplished for a very short period each summer. The 

 partial thawing of the previous week, together with 

 the threatening of further heavy snows, prevented any 

 attempt on my part, and I continued my way. Small 

 parties of Baltis with ponies passed me. They were 

 clad in the usual grim uniform of puttoo, enlivened 

 only by bunches of mauve primulas in their caps, the 

 hair frizzed out on either side of the face. I inquired 

 how far they had come. They stared. I repeated the 

 same question in slightly varied phrases. Again the 

 same result. Then I pointed out what I considered 

 excellent mimetic action, and they understood me to 

 ask for something to eat. Then I waved my hand in 

 the direction of Baltal and the Zogi La, and asked, 

 "Much snow?" This time they concluded I was 

 inquiring the future state of the weather, and answered 

 something about " warojah " and " shin " (much snow), 



