118 AFOOT THROUGH THE 



CHAPTER X 



Hurrah for the storm-clouds sweeping ! 



Hurrah for the driving rain ! 

 The dull earth out of her sleeping 



Is wakened to life again. 



Will Ogilvie. 



Of waves and whirlwinds A lake with many flowers, narrow 

 waterways, and fair women Return to civilisation and 

 green vegetables. 



IF the day had passed quietly the night was to be full 

 of emotions. When I went to bed the sky looked clear. 

 We were securely tied up in a good position for an early 

 start next morning, and I turned in, leaving on my table 

 my finished letters to be posted in Srinagar, and a chef 

 d'osuvre in the way of a freshly-trimmed hat, wherewith 

 to make my entry into the capital, for even in Kashmir 

 woman's natural vanity is not entirely killed. About 

 one o'clock a strange sound filled the air, and I had 

 hardly quite roused myself from sleep when the cries 

 of my men, " Tufan " (whirlwind), " tufan is on us," 

 mingling with the roar of the sudden storm, restored me 

 to full consciousness. Through the length of the boat 

 rushed the wind, tearing away supports, pulling at the 

 " chuppars," for all had been left open because of the 



