KASHMIR VALLEYS 135 



Kashmir is admirably adapted to fruit growing, and if 

 communications were but quicker and cheaper, it might 

 be made the orchard to supply the thirsty Punjab and 

 Central Provinces. Many good varieties of English and 

 French fruits have been introduced at different times, 

 and, whenever given good conditions, have been admir- 

 ably successful. The people themselves, being great 

 vegetarians and understanding the drying and storing of 

 fruits and vegetables for winter use, are quite willing to 

 try new and good methods if guaranteed against loss, 

 and this has been more especially the case since the 

 inauguration of the admirable new land settlement and 

 finance scheme, largely brought about by Mr. Walter 

 Lawrence. The villages are protected now from the 

 exactions of State officials when their gardens or crops 

 appear in too flourishing condition, and their lives 

 rendered far easier. 



My distant view of the lake in the morning had 

 incited me to a nearer and closer examination of its 

 beauties and strange crops. Accordingly, soon after my 

 twelve o'clock breakfast (I generally kept to the down- 

 country meals, viz., early cup of tea, mid-day " brunch," 

 and late dinner) my small " shikar " was alongside the 

 doonga, and, with four men to paddle, went away at a 

 good pace towards the Dal Darwaza, where the tremen- 

 dous tide rushing out necessitated the impressing of two 

 extra men to pull me through. 



On the Jhelum three types of boat are in 

 general use, though there are many modifications 

 of these typical patterns the "doonga," which 

 I have already described, and which is the living 

 boat; the bahat, which is an enormous barge for con- 

 veying stone or wood, and is high at the stern and prow, 



