AFOOT THKOUGH THE 



world, such a mount would only have been an added 

 difficulty. 



I was on the shady side of the hill; what it 

 was like on the sunny side I leave to him to describe 

 who has succeeded in returning from Purgatory. I 

 fulfilled my friend's prophecy, and was very warm, and 

 when worn out by heat I paid little heed to my footsteps, 

 they skidded, and I had an amateur and unpleasant 

 toboggan down to a very hard and unspringy rock! 

 Once more I regained my narrow, stony way, and all 

 thought, all existence even, was concentrated firstly, on 

 putting my feet in the right place, and secondly, on trying 

 to keep them there. The first height reached brought 

 me on a level with the temple on the Takht, the next 

 gave me a fine view of the Jhelum Valley, the many 

 winding canals and the river flowing through the town, 

 the long, straight lines of magnificent poplars cutting up 

 the view with a Dutch primness strangely foreign to the 

 rest of the landscape, the plantations of giant chenaars 

 marking the popular camping-grounds, the Dal Lake 

 with its water jungle, and straight below, shaded by the 

 mountain-side, the pretty country houses of Gupcar, 

 surrounded with bright gardens. It was pleasant resting 

 on the green grass, but ever above me was the peak that 

 seemed to frown at the dilatoriness of its visitor, so with 

 an effort I moved on, and though the path was still steep 

 it was somewhat easier than in its earlier stages. 



I dawdled much on my way, finding little pleasure in 

 making records, so far, at least, as celerity was concerned. 

 From the summit far-reaching snows were to be seen 

 in every direction; ranges to the south showed lovely 

 peaks swathed below with cloud, that divided from the 

 lower world the glistening heights cutting the blue sky ; 



