160 AFOOT THROUGH THE 



designed by an Englishman of diseased imagination 

 so I gathered from studying the embodiment of his 

 fancies and small spoons of the form of the paddles 

 employed in the boats, and salt cellars like the 

 " kangars " or charcoal holders universally in use. 



A rival merchant's boat tried to pass too closely, 

 much to the indignation of my friend, who saw in this 

 an attempt to borrow cheaply his designs. " Put up 

 your umbrella quickly, Memsahib," he implored, and 

 then, with his goods well sheltered from a too-inquiring 

 gaze, he shouted back rude remarks to the baffled rival. 

 " Go and weep, this Memsahib is buying largely," he 

 protested ; " she has bought a coffee set for five hundred 

 rupees, and dishes for a thousand; she is coming to 

 visit my shop ; the Presence buys from no one else ; she 

 will purchase from me for three thousand rupees; cry 

 your loudest ; weep, weep, bad men, she," etc. ; and I in 

 hearing of all this, and conscious of an attempt to get 

 for fifteen rupees my one purchase of two small sweet 

 dishes ! 



But it was a game understood by all taking part, 

 and the discomfited one and his crew were as ready to 

 grin as our own men, knowing their turn would come 

 another time. Passing through the rushing water under 

 the first bridge, we drifted down with the quick current 

 between great wooden houses, with their prettily-carved 

 shutters and flower-filled balconies on either side. 

 Occasionally gay garden patches brightened the scene, 

 and leafy bowers, under which happy family parties were 

 gathered, reminded one of Italy. At length we arrived 

 at the stone steps leading to my entertainer's house, 

 and there was his father to welcome me an old man 

 with the stateliest manners, who led me strange, dark 



