KASHMIR VALLEYS 161 



ways, across stone courts, up more steps to an 

 open space, where, well-screened from the inquisitive, 

 a group of men were working diligently at various 

 beautiful copper goods. ' These are but a few 

 of my men," he explained. " I have four hundred 

 workmen outside the town; these few are here that 

 my visitors may see how my work is done." 



The scene was worthy of a Rembrandt, the furnace 

 casting a rich glow on the roundly moulded, olive-tinted 

 limbs of the workers, all intent on their tasks. Their 

 tools were of the simplest a few small wedges and 

 punches, some nails, small hammers and with this tiny 

 apparatus they were turning out great standard lamps 

 four and five feet high, trays two feet across, jugs, 

 lanterns, all covered with the finest of traceries and 

 reliefs. 



The beautiful colour of the copper work is obtained 

 by boiling in apricot juice and salted water and much 

 hard brushing, and this is what he recommended for 

 the cleaning of all brasses and coppers. So good house- 

 wives, take note! Also, that if the necessary dried 

 apricots cannot be obtained, almost as good results can 

 be obtained by lemon juice. From the heat of the 

 workshed it was pleasant to pass into the lofty, cool 

 exhibition rooms, to be shown to a deep, low chair 

 banked up with cushions, and while Russian tea of the 

 most expensive kind was being brewed in a huge silver 

 samovar, to look at the exquisite wares spread at one's 

 feet ornaments, tiny dishes, delicate stands, into which 

 the light grace of the leafy models, always chosen for the 

 patterns on these things, seem to have passed. The tea 

 prepared, the golden liquid was poured into a tiny cup 

 of priceless Chinese porcelain, and small native cakes 



