168 AFOOT THROUGH THE 



like the terrible one of July, '93, have swept all away. 

 Even on that occasion the first bridge the Amiran 

 Kadal though submerged, stood, but all the others 

 were swept away. This was one of the worst floods 

 ever known in Kashmir, and terrible destruction 

 to city property resulted from it, more than two 

 thousand houses disappearing in it. Mercifully, com- 

 paratively few lives were lost, though, of course, the 

 amount of discomfort and misery it caused was very 

 great. 



When most peaceful the broad waters of the Jhelum, 

 whose banks have been constantly encroached upon, are 

 pent up in an unnaturally restricted bed, and there is 

 always the danger that one day it will break its barriers, 

 and once again overwhelm the heedless dwellers. 



The waterway is bordered by many strange build- 

 ings, no two alike, the facades as irregular and as 

 dissimilar as the inhabitants. On one side is an extra- 

 ordinary building, slightly reminiscent of the stern of an 

 old three-decker this is the old palace. An older 

 building just beside it is the palace of the Maharajah 

 Kanbir Singh, yet others are being added, not strictly 

 beautiful, but, with their strange colouring, decidedly 

 effective, while the golden temple is a very gorgeous 

 spot. Below, the water streets are very picturesque, 

 with their variety of buildings, great stone steps, grand 

 tombs, an occasional temple, and, most striking of all, 

 the great wooden mosque of Shah Hamadan, that earlier 

 in the year is a blaze of colour; its tulip-covered roof 

 projecting over the fine carved sides of richest walnut 

 wood. Here I landed one day to watch closer the gay 

 throngs visiting it for the chief weekly service, dropping 

 further down the river afterwards. Below it, on the 



