180 AFOOT THROUGH THE 



be cemented, and I would find myself the common enemy 

 to be looted and spoiled to the uttermost. A conflict 

 usually continued till the offer of slightly-increased 

 pay " dastur " (" that which is customary ") was the 

 polite word employed brought about renewed activity 

 and eventually a start. 



State transport ponies behaved differently; they 

 arrived with neat pack saddles and a plethora of hooks 

 and ropes, bundles were swiftly arranged, balanced, 

 fastened, and I soon had the pleasure of seeing the 

 first bearing off a stately tin tub, the others with 

 my most valued possessions. I followed, the ponies 

 and retainers, stragglers, outsiders interested in my pro- 

 ceedings, small fry and female belongings to be gradually 

 dropped behind, brought up the rear. A dog, two goats, 

 and a boat were unconsidered trifles also in the proces- 

 sion, and a few camels and a cow or two would have, 

 made the party eminently patriarchal. I wished to 

 look at some gardens I had heard of, and deviating to 

 right and left in search of those made me lose my place 

 in the order of things, and when I again rejoined the 

 high road leading directly from the city to Magam, I 

 fondly imagined all my belongings were well ahead. 

 Needless to mention, they too had found objects of 

 interest in the city, and were gossiping, dawdling, 

 bargaining far behind. 



The route was pleasantly reminiscent of Low Country 

 ways, giant poplars on either side gave a grateful shade, 

 cattle and sheep grazed in the rich marsh lands stretch- 

 ing away to the river, and slow, sad-coated peasants 

 dawdled along, while their womenkind outside the 

 cottages were busy weaving or drying the ripe 

 tomatoes and marrows in preparation for the long 



