182 AFOOT THROUGH THE 



and all other living things to deepest regions, I decided 

 to push on five more weary miles on a dreary, scorching, 

 blistering road, though the Kashmiri villagers, who 

 have a fine independent courtesy, were for my 

 staying and resting under their trees, offering me 

 milk and mulberries in a plaited grass basket, and 

 bringing water and salt to refresh my tired feet. I 

 thanked them, but departed, my heart being hot against 

 all natives by reason of the faithlessness of my own 

 followers, so I, in familiar parlance, cut off my nose to 

 spite my face, and starting out once more on my lonely 

 way, nearly fell by the wayside, for the sun was powerful, 

 and almost succeeded in bowling me over! 



Marching and a free life in the wild were altogether 

 at a discount when I at last reached the friendly dak 

 bungalow at Magam, having been lured on by no 

 vision of snow-crowned heights and noble forests to be 

 viewed in the near future, but rather tempted forward 

 by a sordid will o' the wispish flavour of iced hock. The 

 idea of obtaining this ambrosial liquid had strengthened 

 my tottering footsteps, and it was with an echo of 

 " cooling rills of sparkling hocks," combined with an 

 after-thought of peaches and grapes in my mind, that 

 I marched into the verandah and called loudly for 

 " Khansama." The Khansama was polite and willing, 

 as is natural to his class of wayside hosts all the world 

 over, but hock no; that had been an absurdity bred 

 in my feverish brain, the " Sahib could have whatever 

 she desired '' if, if she were able to provide it ! As 

 it seemed uncertain whether it would be hours or days 

 before my straggling cortege came in, I left my refresh- 

 ment to my host, knowing it useless to order when only 

 the names of things writ large, clear, and inviting, 

 were to be noted in the tariff, the substance of them 



