KASHMIR VALLEYS 189 



and guarded at a distance by some of the grandest 

 peaks in the world. 



To return to the day of my arrival: I had scarcely 

 had time to fix on a suitable camping-ground, and station 

 some coolie to watch for my belated retainers and 

 instruct them where I had determined to pitch my 

 moving tents, when the black clouds that had quickly 

 been passing over dark Apharwat lowered, expanded, 

 and emptied themselves on the green merg. Till that 

 moment I had believed that my morning's walk had 

 taken all energy away. It was pleasant to find I had 

 underrated my powers, and in a few brief moments I 

 was across the merg, swift as " arrow from the bow," 

 and into the shelter of the friendly post office, still in 

 its casual winter condition, not yet in strict working 

 order for the season. " Much rain," was my sufficiently 

 obvious remark as I entered. " We do not consider that 

 much rain," answered the postmaster, without emotion. 

 " It has not descended before to-day ; the merg has 

 lately been one flood ; I should advise you to camp high 

 up, and see that the land is not moving with the wet. 

 Here there is much rain; the Barsat (the real rainy 

 season) is expected soon " ! The remark was not cheer- 

 ing to one who considered the sample received quite 

 representative enough of moisture without added proofs 

 of the powers of the god of watering pots and rheu- 

 matics. Hoping for better things, I made my way 

 across the sopping merg to where I could see my men 

 standing about, soaking and miserable, crossing the 

 many streams by small bridges or stepping-stones. 



