198 



AFOOT THROUGH THE 



spirit that comes from sojourning in solitary places 

 where strangers are a welcome diversion and food hard 

 to come by, and they brought forth milk and butter, not 

 in a lordly dish, but in a very dirty earthen vessel. I 

 refused, knowing that these people have a taste for ripe 

 flavours, and like their dairy produce in the " fine old 

 crusted " state. 



Eventually, more by good luck than good manage- 

 ment, I struck the Ferozepore nullah, and walked beside 



Group of Gujars 



its rushing waters, rejoicing in the coolness, and eventu- 

 ally, after some rough walking, arrived at the snow 

 bridge, a poor thing and hopelessly begrimed, and I 

 once more wondered at the attraction of a " named " goal 

 for most human beings. More scrambling followed, and 

 was rewarded with peeps of snow peaks, Haramuk 

 pre-eminent, when the transparencies of mist that were 



