KASHMIR VALLEYS 221 



In spite of the change for the better in the weather r 

 the morrow witnessed my departure. Time was pressing, 

 some of the servants were really ill, and it was necessary 

 to make arrangements for the transport of my goods 

 out of Kashmir. In spite of a certain stiffness from my 

 yesterday's glissade I walked, and as I descended to the 

 lower levels, the steamy heat of the rice fields, and the 

 rough, uninteresting road, I was cheered by more views 

 of " great Diyamir," and looked my last on that vast 

 peak. I shall not see his like again, and I went forward 

 with that sense of intimate loss and deep sorrow as when 

 a loved sympathetic soul passes from our life. I had 

 seen it, so one desired end had been accomplished; but 

 an influence had passed, a pleasure faded, my lonely 

 wanderings were drawing to a close, and humdrum life 

 would have to be once more endured. 



The heat was greater than when I had ascended to 

 Gulmerg, and, still somewhat stiff and sore, I decided, 

 if possible, to obtain a pony. Once more I was deluded 

 by the' optimism of my attendants ! 



In temperament they resembled the Portuguese 

 devils of legendary fame. If life for a few minutes ran 

 off the greased track, no evils were too enormous for 

 them to expect ; but, once again on the right road, their 

 hopes took the definite outlines of accomplished facts, 

 and expectation and realisation were one! At the 

 mention of ponies on arrival at Magam, I imagined, 

 from the answers to my inquiries, that the route was 

 cropped with them, all possessing side saddles of the 

 latest pattern! Cheered by these hopes, I prepared 

 to roost, and realised the poor exchange I had 

 made in regaining choking walls, fly-filled rooms, and 

 the stuffy valley atmosphere in place of the vast sleeping- 



