244 AFOOT THROUGH THE 



selves to much rheumatism, lumbago, and kindred ills. 

 As I returned across the lake to my pretty Gup car home 

 after my farewell visit to the city, it was with the feeling 

 that I was saying good-bye not only to a most beautiful 

 land, richly endowed with Nature's best and rarest gifts, 

 but to a people happy in their government, and with 

 every encouragement to improve their condition; a 

 people who, after centuries of a terrible black tunnel 

 of misery, anarchy, and oppression, had emerged on the 

 sunny side of the hill. 



In my last chapter I will speak of the country as it 

 affects European residents. 



