KASHMIR VALLEYS 263 



Bombay was unbearably self-conceited over its cool 

 climate. It described itself as cold, and in proof thereof 

 went about clad in serge suits and light woollen coats 

 and <skirts. The steaminess they do not mind, and after 

 the frying pans I had been in, 92 and 93 were a pleasant 

 change. 



Then the voyage, and to those who desire comfort 

 and coolness I do not advise a return home in July. 

 Though on shore its effects had been small, on the 

 ocean the monsoon was terribly obvious, and a close 

 cabin for five days at a stretch is not conducive to 

 enjoyment. 



Wearily the days passed ; most of the servants were 

 down with fever from the close air resulting from 

 battened-down hatches, and it was a weak, wan company 

 that re-visited the decks at Aden and compared notes 

 over experiences that had been of a deadly monotonous 

 character. 



It was hot in the Red Sea, but the change to open 

 ports and tranquil decks was blissful, and sleeping in 

 long chairs in the open air, catching whatever of breeze 

 the dawn brought, carried me back pleasantly to my 

 camping days and the joys of a star-lit canopy. The 

 colouring of the banks is a never-ceasing pleasure, and 

 the gorgeous blue of the sea, and the brilliant rainbows 

 to be discovered in every wave that breaks against the 

 side of the steamer, the flights of swallows like flying 

 fish, the gambols of the huge schools of porpoises all 

 these things help to fill the long hours with images of 

 beauty and small but absorbing interests after being 

 shut up between four very compressed walls. 



Then came Port Said, with its reek of hot insanitary 

 soil, its repelling flashy shows and shops, and its loafing 



