270 AFOOT THROUGH THE 



road contractors, builders, and engineers. In fact, 

 wherever brains are required to direct and control, there 

 are berths for Englishmen with some technical training, 

 and a reasonable amount of energy and perseverance. 

 Among other purely mercantile businesses that have 

 been taken up by our countrymen are two agencies. 

 " Cockburn's " has achieved a wide reputation for the 

 ever-ready courtesy and consideration with which all 

 orders are undertaken by them, and for the infinite care 

 and attention they bestow on the carrying out of the 

 many and strange requests that they "receive. 



I would strongly advise all going to travel in Kashmir 

 to make their first visit to this well-stocked house, for 

 the practical advice of the managers on all subjects con- 

 nected with travel is to be thoroughly relied on, and their 

 recommendations as to boats and servants, etc., are 

 valuable and of great assistance. Hiring all camp and 

 river necessaries saves a great amount of worry and 

 expense too, for the heavy rates for transport from 

 Pindi to Srinagar are the heaviest items of the cost for 

 a temporary sojourner. 



Of late years various discomforts that tended to dis- 

 courage visitors to Srinagar have been removed. A 

 comfortable little dak bungalow has been built, so that 

 those arriving up tired, or possibly suffering from the 

 long tonga journey, have now some comfortable place 

 where they can recover themselves and collect their 

 various necessaries before starting life in a boat or under 

 canvas. 



Of even greater value to Europeans has been the 

 beautiful little cottage hospital, which I have men- 

 tioned elsewhere, which is now in working order, 

 attractive in its outward aspect and perfect in its 



