PORT SAID. 27 



mule was attached to it loosely by about 

 ten feet of rope. It was driven by a gaudy 

 ragamuffin in a turban. Various other gaudy 

 ragamuffins lounged largely and picturesquely 

 on the widely spaced benches. Whence it 

 came or whither it went I do not know. Its 

 orbit swung into the main street, turned a corner, 

 and disappeared. Apparently Europeans did not 

 patronize this picturesque wreck, but drove ele- 

 gantly but mysteriously in small open cabs con- 

 ducted by totally incongruous turbaned drivers. 



We ended finally at an imposing corner hotel, 

 where we dined by an open window just above 

 the level of the street. A dozen upturned faces 

 besought us silently during the meal. At a 

 glance of even the mildest interest a dozen long 

 brown arms thrust the spoils of the East upon 

 our consideration. With us sat a large benign 

 Swedish professor whose erudition was ency- 

 clopaedic, but whose kindly humanity was greater. 

 Uttering deep, cavernous chuckles, the professor 

 bargained. A red coral necklace for the mo- 

 ment was the matter of interest. The professor 

 inspected it carefully, and handed it back. 



" I doubt if id iss coral," said he simply. 



The present owner of the beads went frantic 

 with rapid-fire proof and vociferation. With the 



