256 



DAKOTA. 



as geologist ; Mr. G. B. Grinnell, as paleontolo- 

 gist and zoologist ; and Dr. Williams, as chief 

 medical officer. 



The expedition left Fort Lincoln July 2d, and. 

 returned to that place August 30th, with a loss 

 of four men three from sickness, and one 

 killed in a quarrel. During this trip of nearly 

 1,000 miles, no hostile Indians were met. The 

 route pursued led up the south side of Heart 

 River, thence in a west-southwest direction, 

 across the Oannonball, and up the north fork 

 of Grand Kiver ; thence southwesterly to a 

 point which was named Prospect Valley, in 

 about latitude 45 30', and longitude 103 40'; 

 thence up the east side of the Little Missouri 

 River ; and southerly to the north .fork of the 

 Cheyenne River, Belle Fourche. This point 

 was reached on July 18th, in about longitude 

 104, after sixteen marches and 300 miles of 

 travel. Hitherto the country had much re- 

 sembled other portions of Dakota an open 

 prairie; wood scarce, and only found in river 

 valleys ; water not always to be met with in 

 sufficient quantity, and frequently impregnated 

 with salts, making it both disagreeable and in- 

 jurious ; but still, a fair amount of grass, and 

 no serious difficulties were presented. All the 

 country bordering on Heart River is good, that 

 on Oannonball is fair ; Grand River country is 

 poor, as well as that near the head-waters of the 

 Moreau or Owl River. 



All the streams flow eastward, and head 

 close up to the Little Missouri, which, running 

 northward at right angles to the others, has 

 but a narrow and barren belt tributary to it 

 on the east side. Its main support is from its 

 branches heading in the Powder River range 

 of hills. The expedition came in view of Slim 

 Butte (which is rather a high steep coteau than 

 a butte), of Slave and Bear Buttes, and many 

 others not hitherto located. The Black Hills, 

 as they were approached, looked very high and 

 dark under their covering of pine-timber. 



The expedition crossed the Belle Fourche 

 on July 20th, and found themselves in a new 

 country. The whole character of the sur- 

 roundings was changed. There was an abun- 

 dance of grass, timber, small fruits, and flow- 

 ers, and what perhaps was better appreciated 

 than all, an ample supply of pure cold water. 

 These advantages, with a few exceptions, were 

 enjoyed until the Black Hills were left for the 

 return-journey. The course now lay up the 

 valley of the Red water a large branch of the 

 Belle Fourche to Inyan Kara, thence easterly 

 and southeasterly into the heart of the hills. 

 Valley leads into valley, to the beautiful park 

 country, always until now marked " unex- 

 plored " on the maps. After arriving near Har- 

 ney's Peak a lofty granite mass, over 8,000 

 feet above the sea, and surrounded with craggy 

 peaks and pinnacles a rapid reconnoissance 

 was made to the south fork of the Cheyenne, 

 nearly due south, with five companies of cav- 

 alry, and the exit from the interior was ascer- 

 tained to be not difficult on that side. 



Returning, the course lay northerly and 

 northeasterly, looking for an exit near Bear 

 Butte. From Bear Butte the return-journey 

 led back past Slave Butte, touching the head- 

 waters of the Moreau, crossing the down trail 

 in Prospect Valley, thence tapping the head 

 of Grand River and following roughly the east 

 side of the Little Missouri northward and east- 

 ward to where the trail of the Yellowstone ex- 

 pedition crosses it, and thence into Lincoln, on 

 the north side of Heart River. The return- 

 route was a much better one for a large force 

 than the other. There was no difficulty in 

 finding good camps, with plenty of water and 

 grass. The country passed over, tributary to 

 the Moreau, is barren, but the river valley it- 

 self is more favorable, and at the head of 

 Grand River is much better country than 

 lower down. From Grand River to above 

 Heart River the grass had been thoroughly 

 burned by the Indians. 



The limited time occupied in the explora- 

 tion gave little opportunity for study. The 

 preliminary reports made represent the Black 

 Hills as a region admirably adapted to settle- 

 ment, abounding in timber, in grass and flow- 

 ing streams, with springs of pure cold water 

 almost everywhere. The valleys of South Slope 

 are ready for the plough, the soil of wonderful 

 fertility, as evidenced by the luxuriance of the 

 grass and the profusion of flowers and small 

 fruits ; the climate entirely different from that 

 of the Plains, giving evidence of being much 

 more agreeable cooler in summer, and more 

 moderate in winter ; not subject to drought, 

 for the nightly dews are very heavy ; not liable 

 to excessive snow-fall, for, in narrow valleys 

 containing a large creek, no indications of 

 overflow could be detected. 



No coal was found. Extensive deposits of 

 iron-ore of good quality exist. Immense beds 

 of gypsum were met with. Specimens of gold 

 were washed from the soil in the vicinity of 

 Harney's Peak, and quartz in bed and bowlder 

 was visible in large quantities. Plumbago also 

 was found in small quantities. Large amounts 

 of excellent building-stone, limestones, sand- 

 stone, and granite, were present. Some of 

 the limestones, particularly in the vicinity of 

 Inyan Kara, were fine enough for marbles and 

 handsomely colored. The timber is mainly red 

 pine and spruce of large size. Oak, ash, and 

 elm, are found on the exterior slopes. Game 

 is abundant ; bear, elk, and deer of two kinds 

 were found, and many killed. On the prairies, 

 antelopes were found in large numbers. 



The complete report, accompanied by the 

 reports of Prof. Winchell, Mr. Grinnell, and 

 Dr. Williams, will be prepared, together with 

 a map showing-the route pursued, with bor- 

 dering country, from Fort Lincoln and return, 

 and a special map on a larger scale of the Black 

 Hills proper. 



As a game-region, the Black Hills will com- 

 pare very favorably with any locality in the 

 country. Deer of two species are most abun- 



