Arbor and Bird Day Bulletin 19 



activity impossible, or failure on the part of the planter to make the 

 soil firm around the roots and thereby preventing wind injury to the 

 newly formed rootlets. 



Immediately upon receiving the trees from the nursery, if they 

 are moist and in good condition, heel in moist soil. If the roots are 

 dry and the tops shriveled, bury top, roots and all in moist soil for a 

 few days before planting. This will frequently save trees which ordi- 

 nary treatment would not. When ready to plant dig the holes large 

 enough to accommodate the roots without cramping and deep enough 

 so that when the tree is transplanted it will stand from one to two 

 inches deeper than it stood in the nursery. Prune off all injured or 

 bruised parts of the roots in such a manner that the cut ends will 

 rest upon the bottom of the hole or at least will face downward. Place 

 the tree in the hole in such a way that it will rest firmly on the 

 bottom; now fill in with moist, rich soil until the hole is from one- 

 third to one-half full, or at least until the roots are thoroughly covered; 

 shake the tree slightly to work the soil among the roots, and then 

 get into the hole with both feet and tramp the soil until it is firm. 

 Now fill the hole and leave the surface loose and smooth, but never 

 cloddy and covered with chunks of sod. 



If water is to be used, it is best to dig the holes from one to two 

 days before planting and put from two to three gallons of water in 

 each hole, permitting to entirely soak away before planting, but never 

 apply it to the surface of the ground around the trees after they are 

 transplanted, as it will do more harm than good. Evergreens must never 

 be permitted to dry, as they have resinous sap which hardens when 

 it dries out or comes in contact with the air, immediately killing the 

 tree. 



Evergreen trees can be transplanted almost any month in the 

 year, but the best results at the Station have been secured by trans- 

 planting in the Spring just as the buds are beginning to expand, 

 which is usually from the tenth of April to the first of May, or imme- 

 diately after the Spring growth has hardened, which is from the mid- 

 dle to the last of July. Trees transplanted during these seasons of 

 the year have given universally good results. Deciduous trees must 

 be transplanted during the Fall after their wood has thoroughly 

 ripened or very early in the Spring. Late Spring planting in Eastern 

 Washington is not at all satisfactory on account of the long, dry 

 summer, and should always be discouraged. 



Nothing can take the place of clean culture for trees. Surface 

 watering is worse than no water, and grass and leaves will perma- 

 nently injure, if not kill, newly transplanted trees. If cultivation with 

 horse tools is possible this is the best and most economical way to 

 care for them. If this is not possible, then hand raking and hoeing 

 is the next best thing. If the trees stand alone or on the lawn or 

 park that is frequently watered, it is best to keep the grass from 

 growing closer than five or six feet. 



The Norway and Sycamore Maples are especially commended for 

 general shade planting on account of their hardiness, rapid growth, 



