N 



l-KKi i MI:I:V 



feature carefully regulated by the 

 mutual criticism ' nf tin- family. In 1HW). however, 

 tli>- jiir .111^ of t.ut-ide opinion forced the family 

 lo io<lif> their |-.-uliar principles : marriage and 

 the ordinary family relationship was introduced : 

 . ..iiiiiHim-n. "I pru|eity gae way to limited lia- 

 biliu joint -lock. earh' ..... mber having separate 

 bare represented by so much st4>ck in tin- Uneida 

 Community, Limited. Various eo-o|>erative insti- 

 tntiont were alun established. The headquarter* 

 art at Kenwood, New York, anil work* IIBV.- U-en 

 Urtad abo at Niagara Fulls, Ontario. Noyes, 

 who aaMntrd in elaborating the new constitution, 

 died at Niagara Fall., 13th April 1886. 



BM work, by Noyea, flU Smmd Coming of CkritL 

 Mra/urn from Sin tilt End of FaiOt, and Hittory of 

 JLmtrioHt Sorialum : the periodical. conducted by him 

 (nmrly 40 rob. 1194 HO : in Kritimh Muwum ) ; Hepworth 

 IK too'. New Amerien, lot. ; CharlM Nor.lhoff, Commun- 

 Mfe Santtin of Uu United State* (1875). 



PrrfeWrry. Perfume* are of two distinct 

 clawe* thiwc derived from plants and those which 

 are of animal origin. 



VeartabU Perfume*. The moat ancient of the 

 ~i railed primary odoriferous bodies are the no- 

 railed gnni-reains which exude niitiirally from 

 the tree* which yield them, or from wounoi acci- 

 dental or purposely inflicted to increase I he yield. 

 The mut important are benzoin, myrrh, opo|>onax, 

 loin, Peru, and storax. (ium-resins form the chief 

 ingredient* in ' Incense ' (q.v.) and Pastilles (q.v.). 



A wood group i* that large claw of perfumes 

 which are procured by di-tillntion. and are mostly 

 HUH! bodies, and are termed Volatile I iiN. Kssential 

 HU, or Otto* formerly Quintessences (see OILS). 

 AB toon an ttie (i reeks and the Romans learned 

 the use of the still, which WOK an invention im- 

 ported by them from F.g\ pt. they quickly adapted 

 it to the Reparation of the odorous principle from 

 the numerous fragrant plant- indigenous t<i (ireece 

 and Italy, l/ong before lluit time, however, fragrant 

 watere were in use in Arabia. Odour-lwaring plants 

 mntain the fragrant principle in minute glands or 

 am; them are found sometime- in the rind of the 

 fruit, a* the lemon and orange ; in nthers it is in the 

 leave*, an nap-, mint, mid thyme : in wood, an rose 

 <sl and Handalwood ; in the hark, an cassia and 

 rinnatnon ; in .tils, a* rarauny and nutmeg : in 

 \rt other* in the jH-talx, a in roue, lavender, or 

 thlang Ylanu. The ixlour piinciph- of orris is a 

 Mili.l rmtmSmm cocoa-butter, ami U containe<l in 

 wlmt i rmlly the rhizome of Iri* Jlnrrnlinn, though 

 t-hnirally railed orri-nMil. Thene tflandu or baK 

 of frairranee may he plainly neen in a thin rut 

 tratntn of onui-pel : so al'so in a hny leaf, if it 

 tie held up t> the Mirilij;ht, all the oil eells may lie 

 e^n like perk. All the fM(IMM*>WMfakJ| sub- 

 t*JK* yield by distillation an eivential oil peculiar 

 t earh ; thn. i' tirornreil oil of (tatchouli from the 

 leave* nf the patchouli plant, AyMhMM 



a native of llnrma: CM! of caraway, from the cara 

 wavmed : oil of (teraniam, from the leave* of the 

 Fmmfomwm ntmm; oil of lemon, from lemon- 

 pwt. OUnu limomit; and a hundnsl ( others of 

 infinite . 



All the tnri.Hi. ewetitial oil. or otto* are very 

 lightly M.luMe in water, wi that in the procem of 

 <liiillntinn the water which come* over in always 

 fragrant Thn. elder water, rime water, ornn^e. 



lill water are. a* It were, Uie re*idne of the 

 dbrtillation for obtaining the several otui*. The 

 pra etui of Ifetillation (.| ..) i ^,.,<. i, M |.|e the 

 frairrant part of the plant i. put into the still and 



I with water, and when the water i* made 

 i" l'il tl ..... it... ri*e along with the steam, are 

 Pndl"'< with it in the pipe, and remain floating 

 oft the *t-r. from which they are eauily separated 

 by dMMtiag. In thi. way 100 Ih. of orange, 



lemon, or berpimpt fruit j>ee] will yield about lOoz. 

 of the fragrant oil ; 100 Ih. of cedar-wood will ^i\- 

 almut IS <i/. of oil of cedar ; 100 Ib. of nutmeg will 

 yield 60 to 70 or., of oil <>( nutmeg ; 100 Ih. of 

 geranium leaves will yield 2 oz. of oil. 



K'-rv fra>;rant milistanc-e varies in yield of 

 es-iitial oil. The variety of essential oils is end 

 less; but there is a certain relationship aimni^ 

 odours as among tint*. The lemon-like odom- :m- 

 the most numerouB, such as verU-na, lemon, her^a- 

 mot, orange, citron, citronella ; then the almond- 

 like odour*, such an heliotro|>e, vanilla, violet ; 

 then spice IM|OIII>. cloves, cinnamon, cassia. The 

 whole may lie classilied into twelve well-delined 

 j;rou|>s. All these otto are very soluble in alcohol, 

 in fat, butter, and fixed oils. They also mix with 

 map, snuff, starch, sugar, chalk, and other bodie.-. 

 to watt they impart their fragrance. 



The principal consumption of the cheaper sort- 

 of fragrant ottos is for scenting Soaps (q.v.), 

 imM of which are perfumed while in a melt.'.l 

 state with the several ottos or mixtures of 

 them. The 1>cst qualities of soaps, however, are 

 scented cold hy grinding or squeezing the pre\i- 

 ouslv dried soap between granite rollers after hav- 

 ing Wn mixed with the perfumes. With perhaps 

 the exception of Tonquin liean, the 'scents' used 

 for snuffs and tobacco can scarcely l>e termed per 

 fumes. There is a large consumption of fragrant 

 essential oils in the manufacture of toilet powdeis : 

 under the various names of rose powder, violet 

 powder, &c. ; a mixture of starch and orris, differ- 

 ently scented, is in general demand for drying the 

 skin of infants after the bath. Precipitated chalk 

 ami powdered cuttle-fish bone, being perfumed with 

 otto of roses, powdered myrrh, and camphor, l>ecome 

 'Dentifrice.' The ottos of peppermint, lavender, 

 rose, and others are extensively used in flavouring 

 sweetmeats and lozenges. 



It is found that some flowers either do not yield 

 an essential oil hy distillation or yield it in quan- 

 tities too small to be commercially available. The 

 perfume from these is collected by the process called 

 rnfriimgr. The flower-fanners of the Alpes Mari- 

 time* follow this method on a very large scale with 

 the following flowers: rose, orange, acacia, violet. 

 jasmine, tuberose, and jonquil. In the valley of 

 the Var there are acres of flowers, the blossoms of 

 which are gathered by women and children, and 



Iilaced in little Panniers like fishermen's baskets 

 Ming over the shoulders. They are then carried 

 to the laboratory of flowers and weighed. In the 

 laboratory great quantities of grease, lard, and 

 lieef suet have been collected, melted, washed. 

 and clarified. In each laWatory then' are several 

 thousand chAisti or rhAmtix ( ' sashes ' ), upon which 

 the grease to |M> scented is spread, and upon this 

 grease the blossoms are sprinkled or laid. The 

 cMnt en verre is, in fact, a frame with a glass 

 in it as near as possible like a window sash, 

 only that the frame is two inches thicker. ^" 

 that when one chusse is placed on another 

 there is a space of four inches lietween even 

 two glasses, thus allowing space for blossoms. The 

 flower blossoms are changed every day, or every 

 other day. The same grease, however, rem 

 in the chAjwe so long as the particular plant being 

 used yields blossoms. Each time the fresh flower 

 are put on. the grease is ' worked ' i.e. serrated 

 with a knife so as to offer a fresh surface nf 

 grease to absorb odour. The grease lieing cnfenrfe 

 or 'cnllowcred' in this wav for three weeks or 

 more -in fact, so long as the plants produce blossom-, 

 or the fat is capable of absorbing more odour 

 is at last scraped off the chasse, melted, strained, 

 ami [loured into tin canisters, and is now fit for 

 exportation. Fat or oil is perfumed with these 

 same flowers by the process of maceration i.e. 



