SEWING-MACHINE 



349 



each row having the exact appearance of the 

 ordinary lock-stitch. The stitching thus made can 



Fig. 5. 



a, bobbin-holder, rotetlng-hook, Ac. ; 



t>, bobbin ; and c, bobbin* 



be taken out only stitch by stitch, and in largely 

 used upon the ' uppers ' of shoes. 



The German universal feed cylinder sewing- 

 machine, a lock-stitch machine which feeds in 

 every direction and which by its small cylindrical 

 arm is adapted to repair- 

 ing of shoes, glove manu- 

 facturing, and pocket- 

 lHik manufacturing, has 

 an automatic device 

 attachment by which it 

 duplicates any number 

 of patterns of circular 

 stitching. About 24 or 

 3 yards of thread are re- 

 quired to one yard of 

 sewing for the 'lock- 

 stitch,' being about half 

 the quantity required by 

 the ' double-loop stitch ' 

 machines. Some of the 

 lock-stitch machines will 

 make a single chain- 

 stitch if we remove the 

 under thread device and 

 substitute a looper using 

 but one thread. 



The button -hole 

 machine makes the 

 ' whip-stitch ' of the 

 button-hole and also the 

 ' pearl-/edge stitch.' It 

 is a wonderful piece of 

 mechanism impressing 

 one as almost posspwsitii; 

 conscious intelligence. 

 It works automatically, 

 cuts its own button-hole, 

 works the button-hole 

 Iwfore or after it i cut, 

 conlx the button-hole, 

 and bars the end, heavy 



leather shoe or glove, or upon cloth of either light 

 or heavy weight. The stitch is substantially a 

 lock-stitch, the under thread being thrown up upon 

 the edge of the button-hole. There are several 

 machines of this class, and this stitch is secured 

 by a ' button-hole attachment ' adjusted to a family 

 machine. 



The Singer carpet-sewing machine is manufac- 

 tured under the Joseph Hesse original base patent 

 for straddling a carpet supplemented by re-issue 

 patent in 1879, also by the patents for improvement 

 on same machine by G. Grisel in 1884 and 1885. 

 While other sewing-machines feed the goods, this 

 is the reverse. While the goods remain stationary, 

 the operator, holding the machine with one hand, 

 with the other turns the crank, whicli in turn 

 moves a right and left feed-wheel in the straddling 

 plates. These feed-wheels take hold of the carpet 

 and force the machine forward fast or slow as the 

 crank is turned. The stitch is made with a curved 

 needle and looper. The machine may be operated 

 by a lady ; the caroet is secured by clamps, and a 

 durable overseam is produced. Ingrain, hemp, 

 Brussels, velvets, moquettes, or Axminsters are 

 sewed with equal facility. 



Machines have been invented for taking the 

 'back stitch, the 'basting or running ' stitcli, the 

 tliroiigh-and-through stitch known as the 'cord- 

 wainer's' stitch, the over-and-over stitch ; indeed 

 every stitch used in plain and fancy needlework 

 except the ' blind ' or ' hemming ' stitch. 



The hemming stitch must not be confounded 

 with 'hem-stitching,' a well-known process by 

 which certain threads of the 'tilling' of cloth are 

 drawn, and the warp artistically wrought into 

 clusters or groups of threads by the use of the 



or light as required, and 



stops automatically when 



the hole is completely worked. The machine will 



work 6000 holes in a day, taking 1500 stitches per 



minute, and is capable of being used upon the 



Fig. 6. Head of Wheeler and Wilson's No. 12 fitted up with two upper threads. 



needle. The hem-stitching effect is produced upon 

 the sewing-machine by the weaving of the thread 

 alternately through the edges of adjacent pieces of 



