CHAMBERS'S INFORMATION FOR THE PEOPLE. 



varieties are the common long white, and yellow ; 

 Custard, and Moors Vegetable Cream. 



Sow in pots of any light soil early in April, 

 treating the plants exactly as cucumbers under 

 glass. About the middle of May, transfer them to 

 a bed of rich earth over a trench filled with warm 

 stable-dung. Protect the plants by a hand-glass 

 or frame, which, if the shoots are to run on the 

 ground, should be raised by four or more bricks, 

 giving air freely. When danger of frost ceases, 

 remove the light or frame. 



Mushrooms are not propagated from seeds, for 

 they have no observable seeds, but by spawn, or 

 portions of their substance, mingled in what are 

 sold under the name of mushroom spawn bricks. 

 About Michaelmas is the general season for 

 making mushroom-beds, though this may be done 

 all the year round. A quantity of horse-droppings 

 should be collected, and thrown together in a heap 

 to ferment and acquire heat ; and as this heat 

 generally proves too violent at first, it should, 

 previously to making the bed, be reduced to a 

 proper temperature by frequently turning it in the 

 course of a fortnight or three weeks, during which 

 time, should it be showery weather, the heap will 

 require some sort of temporary protection, by 

 covering it with litter or such-like, as too much 

 wet would soon deaden its fermenting quality. 

 The like caution should be attended to in making 

 the bed, and after finishing it. As soon as it is 

 observed that the fiery heat and rank steam of the 

 dung are gone off, a dry and sheltered spot of 

 ground should be chosen on which to make the 

 bed. The place being determined on, a space 

 should be marked out five feet broad, and the 

 length running north and south should be 

 according to the quantity of mushrooms likely to 

 be required. If for a moderate family, a bed 

 twelve or fourteen feet long will produce a good 

 supply of mushrooms for some months, provided 

 proper attention be paid to the covering. 



'On the space marked for the bed, a trench 

 should be thrown out, about six inches deep ; 

 the mould may be laid regularly at the side, 

 and if good, it will do for earthing the bed here- 

 after ; that of a more loamy than sandy nature 

 being best. In the trench there should be laid 

 about four inches of good horse-dung, not too 

 short, for forming the bottom of the bed ; then 

 lay on the prepared droppings a few inches 

 thick regularly over the surface, beating it as 

 regularly down with the fork ; continue thus, 

 gradually drawing in the sides to the height of 

 five feet, until it narrows to the top like the ridge 

 of a house. In that state it may remain for ten 

 days or a fortnight, during which time the heat 

 should be examined towards the middle of the 

 bed, by thrusting some small sharp sticks down in 

 three or four places ; and when found of a gentle 

 heat the bed may be spawned, for which pur- 

 pose the spawn bricks should be broken regu- 

 larly into pieces about an inch and a half or two 

 inches square, beginning within six inches from 

 the end of the bed, and in lines about eight inches 

 apart After spawning the bed, if it is found to be 

 in that regular state of heat before mentioned, it 

 may be earthed, thus : the surface being levelled 

 with the back of the spade, there should be laid 

 on two inches of mould, which is then to be 

 beaten closely together, and when the whole 

 is finished, the bed must be covered about a 



560 



foot thick with good oat-straw, over which should 

 be laid mats, for the double purpose of keeping 

 the bed dry and of securing the covering from- 

 being blown off. In the course of two or three 

 days, the bed should be examined ; and if it is 

 considered that the heat is likely to increase, the 

 covering must be diminished for a few days, which 

 is better than taking it entirely off. In about a 

 month or five weeks mushrooms will most likely 

 make their appearance, and in the course of eight- 

 and-forty hours afterwards they will have grown to 

 a sufficient size for use ; when instead of cutting 

 them off close to the ground, they should be 

 drawn out with a gentle twist the cavity being 

 then filled up with a little fine mould, gently 

 pressed in level with the bed.' 



The method above described is intended for 

 open-air culture; but in large gardens, a mush- 

 room-house is usually chosen, the beds being 

 formed in large shallow boxes, arranged in the 

 manner of shelves around the walls. Light is not 

 required ; and mushrooms may be abundantly 

 produced in a dark cellar or outhouse, provided 

 suitable materials are obtained, and care bestowed 

 in regulating the temperature at about 55 to 60, 

 and maintaining a moist atmosphere. 



HORTICULTURAL MONTHLY CALENDAR. 



Having in almost every instance mentioned the seasons for 

 sowing, planting, transplanting, and otherwise attending to the 

 culture of vegetables in the kitchen-garden, it would only be 

 waste of room to repeat directions, as is usually done, in con- 

 nection with the different months. It is hoped, therefore, 

 that the following general references to the months will be 

 sufficient : 



January. Trench and delve up all open grounds, if the 

 weather permit ; and in warm, exposures, sow early peas and 

 other articles that are to be brought forward early. 



February. Continue turning up the ground designed for early 

 crops ; plant early potatoes, sowing may go on a little more 

 briskly, especially in warm and well-sheltered borders. 



March. This is a particularly busy month, being, from its 

 open and drying character, favourable for all works of preparation. 

 Peas, beans, asparagus, onions, carrots, &c. are sown ; and 

 various articles are transplanted from frames. 



April. A continuance of preparing, sowing, and planting ; 

 hoeing, thinning, and clearing out of weeds require also to be 

 attended to. In very dry weather, seedling-beds should be 

 carefully watered. 



May. The main crops are now to be sown, early peas earthed 

 up and staked, and young plants transplanted. 



June. Sow kidney-beans, runners, &c.; water growing plants, 

 if required ; hoe potatoes, cabbages, and peas ; and thin out beds. 

 Gather medicinal and sweet herbs, when in bloom, and dry in the 

 shade for winter use. 



July. Sow broccoli for the last time; also turnips, lettuces, 

 &c.; and prepare all the unoccupied plots of ground for autumn 

 and winter crops. 



August. Commence now to sow for the crops of next year, 

 such as onions, early cabbages, and parsley ; also winter 

 spinach. Earth celery ; hoe and thin turnips ; cut down stems - 

 of gathered artichokes, and generally clear out all stumps 

 and stalks of used plants, for their continuance exhausts the 

 ground to no proper purpose. Cut herbs and gather all bulbous 

 crops, such as onions, as soon as they are withered in the 

 stem. 



September. The kitchen-gardener has now got his principal 

 labours in cropping over, and his chief work is continuing 

 to sow for winter and spring successions ; he also digs potatoes 

 that seem ready, and takes care to cut down and clear off 

 weeds. 



October. The garden having been prepared for spring vegetables, 

 sow what was left over last month, including celery, asparagus, 

 also early peas and beans. The cabbages and savoys require to be 

 earthed up as high as the leaves. Remove carrots and other 

 roots, and store them away for winter use. 



November. If temperate and open, sowing of peas and beans 

 may be continued in sheltered borders. 



December. During the latter end of November, and the open 

 period of this month, the chief operations are digging, manur- 

 ing, or trenching vacant ground, and attending to the pre- 

 paration of composts. In frost, the labour exerted on the 

 plants need only be protective ; and the gardener usually occupies 

 much of this period in pruning his trees, wheeling in and storing 

 dung, and attending to the more delicate plants in frames and 

 sheltered borders. In mild weather, a few early peas and radishes 

 may be sown in dry warm borders, and small salads and cucumbers 

 in hotbeds. 



