C L O T H I N G-C O S T U M E. 



WHETHER inhabiting a tropical, temperate, 

 or arctic region existing in abject bar- 

 barism, or enjoying the highest degree of civil- 

 isation and refinement, man always affects some 

 kind of covering or decorative appendage, being 

 instigated to this necessity by motives of defence, 

 shelter, decorum, or vanity. From the simple 

 head-dress and loin-cloth of the S.outh Sea islander 

 to the elaborate costume of the gay Parisian, the 

 ruling principle is much the same ; more rational, 

 perhaps, in the case of the savage than in that of 

 the individual laying claim to superior enlighten- 

 ment In obeying this clothing instinct or neces- 

 sity, attention is always paid, not only to the kind 

 and quality of the covering, but to the form and 

 manner in which it shall be worn. Thus originates 

 the distinction between clothing and costume 

 the one having reference to the fitness of the 

 material for the purposes of shelter or protection, 

 the other having reference to taste or a sense of 

 the becoming, though often marred by the absurd- 

 ities of vanity and caprice 



CLOTHING. 



Admitting the above distinction, and toying 

 aside consideration of all dress or armour of a 

 defensive kind, clothing must be regarded simply 

 in the light of a protection from the extremes of 

 heat and cold, so that the body may perform 

 its functions healthfully and without obstruction. 

 Keeping this purpose in view, and also bearing 

 in mind the nature and action of the human skin 

 (see No. 8), 'it is easy to deduce that clothing 

 should be of such a nature as not to impede the 

 necessary escape of perspirable matter, but to 

 suffer it to pass through its texture ; that it should 

 be of such a non-conducting quality as to confine 

 the heat generated by the blood sufficiently to 

 preserve the activity of the nervous system ; and 

 50 



that, by its lightness, softness, and pliancy, it 

 should permit the free motion of the limbs.' 

 Clothing which would subserve all these purposes 

 would be nearly perfect in its hygienic properties ; 

 and such an attire we could readily assume, were 

 it not that considerations of economy, special 

 avocations, and the like, are always interfering 

 less or more to disturb the equilibrium. With 

 these preliminary remarks, and referring the reader 

 for further information on the general hygiene of 

 dress to the article PRESERVATION OF HEALTH, 

 we shall now consider the peculiar characteristics 

 of British clothing. 



QUALITY OF CLOTHING. 



Woollen fabrics, as articles of clothing, have 

 several advantages over other materials. They 

 are bad conductors of heat ; hence their warmth, 

 by preventing the heat of the body from escaping, 

 and their utility in preserving the equability ; 

 temperature, though exposed to sudden changes. 

 From their filamentous texture and elasticity, they 

 are light and pliable ; and yet, from their peculiar 

 property of being felted, they can be prepared to 

 any degree of weight and thickness. They possess 

 also the property of not being easily wetted, while 

 they are sufficiently porous either to absorb or to 

 permit the escape of all cutaneous exhalations. 

 Further, when worn next the skin, their rough 

 and uneven surface produces in every motion of 

 the body a gentle friction, which greatly assists 

 and promotes the functions of the minute cuta- 

 neous vessels and nerves. 'In a climate like ours, 

 which is so variable, and usually so cold, tin- 

 article of dress that is worn next the skin ought 

 always,' says Dr Robertson of Huxton, 'to be a 

 bad conductor of heat, at all events. In general, 

 flannel of an adjusted degree of thickness and 

 fineness answers this intention sufficiently well, 



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