CLOTHING COSTUME. 



everything beyond this is exhausting and detri- 

 mental. What is sought for in bed is rest of mind 

 and body ; and this most certainly cannot be 

 obtained when half-smothered, heated, and irri- 

 tated by an undue amount of warm clothing. ' A 

 free and sufficient use of exercise, and particularly 

 walking-exercise ; a regular exposure to the open 

 air ; a daily change of air, as far as may be practic- 

 able walking as far away from home as strength, 

 and time, and weather allow, instead of confining 

 the exercise to a circle near the house ; and a 

 regulated diet, are the great means, next to suffi- 

 ciently frequent ablutions, of keeping the vessels 

 of the skin in a state of efficient activity, and pre- 

 serving or restoring the natural temperature of 

 the surface. And this point having been gained, 

 very few and light bed-clothes are all that will be 

 required.' 



COSTUME. 



Dress may be said to consist of three generic 

 forms the simple attire of savage life, in which 

 a skin, blanket, or some other loose covering, is 

 nearly all that is employed ; the flowing and 

 elegant dress of the East ; and the precise and 

 more closely fitting clothing of modern European 

 nations. Of the first mentioned, little need be 

 said. In the absence of manufactured, articles, 

 savage tribes in all countries are, and have been, 

 in the habit of attiring themselves in such rude 



materials as nature 

 has placed within 

 their reach. The 

 Indian of North 

 America clothes 

 himself in skins on 

 which the fur is left, 

 or with a blanket 

 procured from the 

 wandering trader. 

 His legs and feet he 

 dresses in mocca- 

 sins made from a 

 species of leather, 

 and in full dress 

 he fancifully paints 

 _.,_ his skin with pig- 

 ments. In some of 

 the islands of the 

 Pacific as also 

 till lately in New 

 Zealand the in- 

 habitants tattoo 

 the surface of the 

 body, by puncturing it with an instrument, and 

 inserting coloured juices in the wounds. Such, 

 likewise, was the bar- 

 barous practice and 

 fashion of the original 

 inhabitants of the 

 British Islands. 



Throughout Asia, 

 in North Africa, and 

 in Turkey, the dress 

 is generally of a loose 

 and flowing form, that 

 of the common people in China being least so. 

 The turban is almost universal It is a male 

 head-dress, composed of muslin swathed in folds, 

 for the most part round a cap ; and by presenting 



North American Indian. 



a mass of light material to the sun, it is considered 

 to be a suitable covering for the head in Eastern 

 climes. The forms of this head-dress, however, 

 differ considerably, some being more tasteful than 

 others. The first represented in the preceding 

 figure is the round turban common in Africa ; the 

 second, an elegant modern Egyptian form. 



A crowd in Constantinople, previous to the late 

 modifications of costume, was, says a traveller, a 

 picturesque group : ' there was the graceful Effendi 

 Turk with snow-white turban, jetty beard, spark- 

 ling and full eyes, long flowing caftan, scarlet 

 trousers, yellow boots, rich Cashmere shawl round 

 the waist, in which shone the gilded dagger ; next 

 was the gay but cunning-looking Greek, with short 

 chin, black turban, enormous but short trousers, 

 bare legs, and black shoes; then the grave 

 Armenian, with his calpac of black felt balloon- 

 like upon his head, his long Turkish robe, silver 

 ink-horn in his girdle, and his feet in the crimson 

 slipper or boot ; next was the lew, with his blue 

 turban and slippers ; and with these were seen 

 the high taper caJpac of the Tartar, the melon- 

 shaped head-piece of the Nizam Djedid, the gray 

 felt conical cap of the imam and dervish, and 

 occasionally the ungraceful hat of the Frank, with 

 the be-buttoned and mean-looking costume of 

 Western Europe.' 



The dress of the modern Greeks is a mixture 

 of Eastern and European costume, with little to 

 mark the classical origin of the peopl . The chief 

 article of attire of the poorer Greeks is a capote, 

 or large woollen garment, with a hood, shaggy 

 with short threads of yarn ; it is heavy when 

 dry, but nearly insupportable when wet ; it is as 

 serviceable for home and bed to the wandering 

 Greek as the bunda is to the Hungarian shepherd, 

 and it is a perfect defence against cold and dew. 

 All but the poor classes of Greeks, however, dress 

 showily, and even a servant will expend every 

 farthing of his wages in fine clothes. Thus a 

 physician's janizary may be seen in a rich robe 

 of scarlet, his vest of blue velvet trimmed with 

 gold-lace, and in his silk girdle a brace of pistols 

 embossed with silver ; turban, short petticoats, and 

 trousers of purest white, 

 and gaiters or leggings of 

 scarlet velvet embroidered 

 with gold ; altogether, a 

 costume that might suit a 

 prince. The general dress 

 consists of a short em- 

 broidered jacket, without 

 collar, and with sleeves 

 open from the elbow; 

 an embroidered vest, a 

 cotton shirt, a tunic of 

 several folds, secured by 

 a sash or shawl about the 

 waist, and reaching to the 

 knee ; loose breeches or 

 trousers, short socks, and 

 slippers between sandals The Greek. 



and shoes. In one corner 



of the sash, the common people carry their money, 

 which the rich put into purses, and carry, with 

 their handkerchiefs, watches, and snuff-boxes, in 

 their bosoms. The head-dress is various as the 

 turban, d la Turque; the fur-cap, like a muff ; the 

 fez or tasselled cloth cap, worn on one side ; the 

 plain caps of the peasantry ; and skull-caps of 



