Muhammadan 

 Colours. 

 Men's 

 Garments. 



Women's 

 Garments. 



Chadar. 



Pagri. 

 S.amar-'bands. 



GOSSYPIUM 



MANUFACTURES THE COTTON PLANT 



Steam-mills 



they are in North India commonly termed kheses, to the South gabruns 

 Hindu colours, when striped they are susis. The usual colours are dark red for Hindus, 

 dark blue for Muhammadans, in both cases interwoven with white. The 

 dhoti or dkotar is worn by men and is a piece of plain cloth generally 

 having a coloured border and measuring about 5 yards in length and 

 1J yards in breadth. It may be made locally or imported. The sari 

 or woman's upper garment varies greatly according to the wealth^ 

 position, caste, etc., of the wearer as regards the material, quality or 

 degree and nature of ornamentation. With finer materials it is usually 

 a gauze, and is still very largely hand-loom work. The sari is, from an 

 art point of view, perhaps the most picturesque of all Indian garments. 

 The ckadar or shawl is a sheet usually about three yards long and half 

 as wide. It is worn by men, but by women of certain castes only 

 The pagri or lungi (turban) is a long narrow strip of cloth worn by m 

 round the head or around the waist as a cummer-band (kamar-band). 

 Mandelslo (Travels, in Olearius, Hist. Muscovy, etc., 1662, 27, 83) discusses 

 the cotton manufactures of Broitschia (Broach) and of the " comerbants " 

 or girdles of silk and fine cotton. 



Throughout India certain localities are famed for the quality, design, 

 etc., of their kheses, gabruns, susis, dhotis, saris, chadars, pagris and 

 lungis, etc. The merchant who may desire to open up a trade in 

 manufacturing and supplying these special goods must ascertain the 

 exact size and shape, the particular quality and colour in demand in each 

 locality. The mere fact of offering a superior quality of goods is no in^ 

 ducement to trade. Few communities in the world are more conservative 

 regarding their garments than are the various races and castes of India. 



The figured or flowered muslins jamdanis are by far the most 

 artistic of the cotton manufactures. These are literally cotton brocades^ 

 the patterns or flowers being formed by spools carrying special thread* 

 of cotton, silk, wool or gold, that are thrown by hand within the warp and 

 thus become supplementary to the weft. The centres most famed for 

 these artistic textiles are Dacca, Santipur, Chittagong, Tanda and Chanderi. 

 The flowered muslins of Calcutta and Lucknow are needle- embroider 

 (chickan) work. 



STEAM-POWER MILLS: Spinning and Weaving. The first cotto 

 mill founded in India was at Fort Gloster (the Bowreah Cotton Mills 

 Company, Ltd.), near Calcutta. This received its charter in 1818 as a 

 cotton mill, a coffee plantation and a rum distillery. Some years later 

 the first of the Bombay series was established, namely the Bombay Spin- 

 ning and Weaving Company (1851), and ten years later there were a dozen 

 mills and 338,000 spindles at work. In 1879 the number had increased to 

 58 mills and 1,500,000 spindles, giving employment to 39,537 persons; 

 in 1886-7 there were 90 mills with 16,926 looms and 2,202,602 spindles ; 

 in 1896-7, 155 mills, 37,303 looms and 3,984,023 spindles; and in 

 1901-2, 194 mills, 41,815 looms and 4,992,249 spindles. Within the 

 decade ending 1901-2 the number of looms had increased by 69 per cent., 

 and of spindles by 52 per cent. The capital invested in the 194 mills has 

 been published as^Ks. 16,01,40,384 plus 650,000 ; in 1904-5 they had still 

 further expanded, namely to 203 mills with a capital of Es. 15,97,41,301 

 plus 1,067,245, and had 47,305 looms and 5,196,432 spindles. In the 

 Moral and Material Progress of India (1905-6, 176) the following statement 

 occurs : " There were at the end of 1905-6 in British India and Native 



618 





Exact Shape 

 and Colour 

 Essential. 



Jamdanis. 



Mills. 



Foundation of 

 Indian. 



Capital. 



