IMI'OKTKI) !><>TS AND SHoKS 



HIDES 

 AND SKINS 



tanned the skins are subjected to further treatment and are finally 

 spoken of as "dressed." 



Hulfs arc tanned, principally for sole, belting and harness leather; 

 kins for uppers of boots (light leather) and bookbinding ; sheepskins 

 atl.inl a variety of leathers; goat skins are glove skins, although hunt* 

 skins ami deer skins afford good substitutes in glove-making. The thickest 

 sole leathers are made from the cattle of the less cultivated countries, since 

 artificial protection seems to tend to render the skin thinner. The cattle 

 oft hc> River Plate are the chief source of the heavy hides or butts. Castra- 

 tion -.jives a more uniform hide, and these are much preferred. Hides of 

 diseased animals are nearly always inferior, and moreover dangerous, as 

 there would seem reason for believing that anthrax may be conveyed by 

 imperfectly cured hides. Similarly the sheep most prized and most care- 

 fully produced as fleece-yielders afford very inferior skins. Hides may 

 reserved by being salted on the fleshy side or by being simply passed 

 through a solution of arsenic and dried in the shade. This is the modern 

 practice in India, especially at the yards of the large and important shippers. 



BOOT AND SHOE TRADE. The IMPORTS of boots and shoes have for some 

 years been increasing rapidly. In 1886-7 the supply was valued at Rs. 1 1,3 1,258 ; 

 in 1903-4 atRs. 27,93,249 ; in 1905-0 at Rs. 34,45,418; and 1906-7, Rs. 29,08,093. 

 One of the most significant features of this trade is the expansion of American 

 supply, which even in India has begun to be felt. The Indian market is thus 

 one of growing importance, and this circumstance manifests the possibilities of 

 the local industry, already well organised. Every village and town has its 

 shoemakers. In the cities whole streets are often devoted to them, and one 

 of the most surprising features of the trade is the very large number of China- 

 iiu-ii engaged in it. Native shoes are often elaborately embroidered and even 

 jewelled. The places most famed for artistic shoes and leather work generally 

 are in BENGAL Cuttack, Patna and Saran. In the UNITED PROVINCES 

 Rampur, Lucknow, Agra, Jhansi and Saharanpur. In the PANJAB Kohat, 

 Rawalpindi, Peshawar, Dera Ghazi Khan and Hoshiarpur. In the CENTRAL 

 PROVINCES Chanda. In RAJPUTANA Jaipur and Bikanir. In BOMBAY Surat, 

 Ahmedabad, Poona, Ratnagiri and Hyderabad (Sind). In SOUTH INDIA Raichur, 

 Salem, Trichinopoly, Madras and Mysore. These are the chief centres in the 

 Native trade, but, as already said, Cawnpore stands out pre-eminently as the 

 commercial centre of the modern trade (European style) in boots, shoes, saddlery, 

 trunks, etc. Lastly, it may be added that for the past ten years or so India has 

 begun to export boots and shoes. In 1898-9 this traffic was valued at Rs.3,52,027 ; 

 in 1902-3 atRs. 10,59,052; in 1905-6 at Rs. 4,88, 640 ; and in 1906-7, Rs. 4,68,491. 

 These exports go from Calcutta and Bombay and are consigned mainly t<> 

 Natal, Cape Colony, Mauritius and Egypt, with smaller quantities to England, 

 Russia, etc. Indian (or, to be more correct, Cawnpore) ammunition boots are 

 now well known in trade. 



Artistic Manufactures. Belts, powder-flasks, saddlery, saddle-cloths, etc., etc., 

 are extensively produced all over the country, and in some cases the goods turned 

 out are of superior quality and highly artistic. The " Frontier Belts " of Pesha- 

 war, Bannu, Kohat and Quetta are well known and in much demand over a 

 large portion of India. Sambar leather is also richly embroidered, and in the form 

 of sheets, table-cloths, etc., is extensively used. The localities best known for 

 the production of these are Gorakhpur in Oudh and Chanda in the Central Pro- 

 vinces. In the Karnul district of Madras leather mats are quaintly painted, 

 and in many parts of Rajputana and Bombay leather is admirably stamped and 

 engraved in bookbinding. The most noted centres for this art are Alwar and 

 Ahmedabad. In Gujarat an industry has long existed in carving rhinoceros- 

 hide shields. In some cases, instead of being carved the hide is so cured as to 

 become almost transparent and of a pale amber colour. [Cf. Ind. Art at Delhi, 

 1903, 199-205 ; Hoey, Monog. Trade and Manuf. N. Ind., 1880, 90-5 ; Blount and 

 Bloxam, Chem. for Engin. and Manuf., 1900, 367-95 ; Perkin, Yellow Colouring 

 Matter in Tan. Mat., Chem. Soc., 1900, 423-32 ; Monograph* : Grant, Leather 

 Induet. Pb., 1891-2; Martin, Tanning and Working in Leather, Bombay, 1903; 

 Walton, U. Prov., 1903; Hadi, Dyes and Dyeing in U. Prov., 1896. 58-61; 



639 



Various 

 Qualities. 



.'.. it. 



Boots and 

 Shoes. 



Import*. 



Local 

 1'roduction. 



Centres of 

 Production. 



Cawnpore. 



Export*. 



Art Manu- 

 factory. 



" Frontier 

 Belts." 

 Embroidered 

 Sheets. 



