('HAY ItooT 



OLDENLANDIA 



UM BELL AT A 



P*fum. 



from these, by distillation, then- respective perfumes. Into the *! 

 still is placed the zdmin or mdwa of all itar, viz. sandal itar, manufactured 

 at K.iM.-iuj. The flowers are thrown into the cauldron on the Are and 

 then perfume comes off in steam and passes through the worm into the 

 copper bhupkn, and there combines with the sandal itar. On cooling 

 peri u me is separated from the water by skimming the surface. In some 

 localities, in place of sandal, lemon-grass is used as an adjunct, especially 

 in the production of attar of roses. 



Jaunpore and Ghazipur might be described as the chief manufacturing 

 localities, Delhi, Ainntsar and Lahore the distributing centres, 

 Bombay the emporium of foreign transactions. The following are some 

 of the more important ingredients and materials in Indian perfumery : 

 Cassie (Acacia Farnesiana, p. 14) ; Bael (.-Egle Marmelos, p. 27) ; Galangal 

 (p. 60) ; Himalayan Dhup (Jurinea) ; Altingia (p. 61) ; Aquilaria (p. 72) ; 

 Arachis (p. 82) ; Cinnamomum (pp. 315-6) ; Citrus (p. 327) ; Lemon, Bua, 

 Citronella Oils, etc. (pp. 451-62) ; Jasminum (motiya, Juki, and cham- 

 beli) ; Michel ia (champa) ; Mimusops (maulsari) ; Lawsonia (henna, p. 707) ; 

 Ilang-ilang (Cananga) ; Keura (Pandanus, pp. 188, 777) ; Musk (p. 786) ; 

 the Spikenard (p. 792) ; Patchouli (Pogostemon, p. 904) ; Rose Attar 

 (p. 926) ; Sandal-wood (p. 977) ; Kut (p. 980) ; Sesamum (p. 986) ; Vetiveria 

 (p. 1106). [Cf. Sawer, Odorography, 1892 ; Scient. American, Cycl. Receipts, 

 1899, 383-5 ; Gildemeister and Hoffmann, Volatile Oils, 1900 ; Hooper, 

 The Perfumes of the Moghuls, in Cak. Rev., Oct. 1904.] 



OLDENLANDIA UMBELLATA, Linn.; Fl.Br.Ind., hi., 66; D - K |*- 

 Prain, Beng. Plants, i.,559 ; Cooke, Fl Pres. Bomb., 1903, i., 590; RUBIACE^. * 



Chay-root or Indian Madder, chirval, surbuli, kalhenyok, saya, etc. A Cna y -r 

 common biennial, met with from Orissa and Bengal southward to Ceylon, 

 also in North Burma. 



The root-bark, with alum as a mordant, gives a beautiful red DTK, formerly 

 much employed in Madras for dyeing handkerchiefs (the bandana handkerchiefs 

 formerly famed). Though met with in Bengal, it is not used for dyeing in that 

 province. It is somewhat extensively cultivated in sandy situations on the 

 Coromandel Coast, as at Nellore and Masulipatam. Previous to sowing, the land 

 is manured, generally by penning cattle or sheep, and thereafter thoroughly 

 ploughed. The seeds are sown in August, on the ground having been well 

 moistened. After sowing it is again watered, and the process repeated three 

 times daily till the yoxmg shoots appear, when water need then be given 

 less frequently. Cow-dung should be mixed with the water once a day for 

 the first fifteen days. Extensive watering is the chief feature of the culti- 

 vation, but weeding has also to be constantly performed. The expense of 

 cultivating an acre is naturally heavy (estimated at Rs. 28-7a.) compared with 

 the returns. 



Only the bark of the root contains the dye. The Natives consider the roots 

 of the wild plant best, and prefer to make their collections at the end of the 

 second year's growth. In dyeing, the Hindus use an aqueous solution of the 

 colouring matter, obtained by pounding the root in water. The fabric is steeped 

 several times in this solution, then boiled for two hours in a similar solution and 

 finally washed with clean water and dried. Various attempts have been made 

 to introduce the dye into Europe, but these have been unsuccessful, due prob- 

 ably to the fact that the root rapidly deteriorates when stored in damp situations. 

 The tinctorial properties of the dye-stuff have been investigated by Hummel 

 and Perkin. [Cf. Alexander Hamilton, New Ace. E. Ind., 1727, i., 370 ; Milburn, 

 Or. Comm., 1813, i., 277 ; Heyne, Tracts on Ind., 1814, 209 ; Pharmacog. Ind., 

 1891, ii., 199 ; Hummel and Perkin, in Proc. Chem. Soc., 1893, 201 ; 1895, 150; 

 Holder, Monog. Dyes and Dyeing, Madras, 1890, 2 ; Imp. Inst. Tech. Repts., 

 1903, 207-9 ; Joret, Les PI. dans L'Antiq., etc., 1904, ii., 349.] 



821 



Dye. 



Cultivated. 



Root-baric. 



Deterioration. 



