TRAINING 323 



fear, and shown that it will not harm him. But on no 

 account should he be beaten on such occasions. And 

 should he be still shy, let him be taken past the object 

 of his fear, first at a greater distance, and then nearer, 

 until he may be quietly led close to it. It is only by 

 patience on the part of the breaker that these diffi- 

 culties are got the better of; whereas if the animal is 

 forcibly and suddenly taken up to the object before the 

 fear has subsided, a habit may be established, which 

 will never afterwards be eradicated. Nothing can be 

 more absurd than to beat even an adult and thorough- 

 trained horse for shying. This is certain to establish 

 rather than remove the fault. The same system 

 should be adopted with an aged horse, as recom- 

 mended for the colt, and this I have found effectual in 

 every case. The best horse is liable occasionally to 

 shy at a white post, or other object which he may 

 suddenly come upon, especially in the evening or in 

 the dark ; but on no account should the rider proceed 

 on his journey without quietly and deliberately leading 

 up his horse to the object, and allowing him to see 

 what it is. 



When the colt has been inured to walking on a 

 road or street, and will pass any object that may be 

 presented without shying, the breaker should then 

 walk by his side, throw his right arm over his back, 

 while he holds the reins in his left. The breaker 

 must invariably walk by the left side of the animal, so 

 that he may be thoroughly accustomed to permit him 

 to approach on that side, which is the one universally 

 adopted for mounting. The pace should now be occa- 

 sionally quickened, and at the same time the colt should 

 be gently tapped on the right side with the whip, which 

 ought always to be held in the right hand. This being 

 repeated at each time the pace is quickened, will 



