ANGORA WOOL 



facture of shawls, camlots, and fine cloth, &c., is obtained from the long-hairod goat 

 of Angora, to -which province this animal is peculiar. Lieutenant Conolly has given 

 an account of this goat and some other varieties, Capra lanigera, the Cashmere gdat, 

 and CJiangra or the shawl-goat of Thibet . 



'The country -whore it is found was thus described to us "Take Angora as a 

 centre, then Kizxil Ermak (or Italy's) Chomgero, and from eight to ten hours' march 

 (say thirty miles) beyond ; Beybazar, and the same distance beyond, to near Nalaban- 

 Sevreo, Hissar, Yoorrook, Tosiah, Costambool, Gerodoh, and Cherkesh, from tlie 

 whole of which tract the common bristly goat is excluded, and the white-haired goat 

 alone is found." The fleece of the white Angora goat is called tiftik (the Turkish 'for 

 goat's hair), in distinction to yun, or yapak, sheep's wool. After the goats have com- 

 pleted their first year, they are clipped annually, in April or May, and yield pro- 

 gressively, until they attain full growth, from 150 drachms to 1 ohe of tiftik (from 

 1 Ib. to 4 Ibs. English). The hair of the tiftik goat is exported from its native 

 districts raw, in yarn, and woven in the delicate stuffs for which Angora has been Idng 

 celebrated. The last are chiefly consumed in Turkey, while the yarn and raw material 

 are sent to France and England. It appears that the first parcels of Angora wool 

 were shipped from Constantinople for England in 1820, and it was so little appreciated 

 that it fetched only IQd. the pound. 



' Within the last two or three years, a new texture made of goats' wool has, how- 

 ever, been introduced both into France and this country, which calls for particular 

 attention. This texture consists of stripes and checks expressly manufactured for 

 ladies' dresses, and having a soft feel and silky appearance. The wool of which this 

 article is made is chiefly the wool of the Angora goat. This wool reaches us through 

 the Mediterranean, and is chiefly shipped at Smyrna and Constantinople. In colour 

 it is the whitest known in the trade, and now more generally used in the manufacture 

 of fine goods than any t>ther. There are, however, other parts of Asiatic Turkey from 

 which limited supplies are received ; but in quality not so good as that produced in 

 Angora. After the manufacture of shawls with goats' wool declined in France, this 

 raw material remained neglected for a long while. About two or three years ago, 

 however, the French made another attempt, and brought out a texture for 

 ladies' dresses, in checks and stripes, which they call ' poil de chevre.' The warp is a 

 fine spun silk, coloured, and the weft Angora or Syrian white wool, which was thus 

 thrown on the surface. This article has a soft feel, and looks pretty, but in wearing 

 is apt to cut. The price of a dress of French manufacture has been from '2l. 10s. to 

 3/. ; but by adopting a cotton warp, the same article is now made in England and sold 

 for 15s. ; and it is found that the cotton warp, as a mixture, suits the goats' hair 

 best.' Southey on Colonial Sheep and Wools, London, 1852. 



The principal manufactures of ' poil de chevre' in France are at Paris, Cronyon, 

 Thelle (Oise), Ecrus (Oise), Montataire (Oise), and Ledau. In England, the wool is 

 chiefly spun at Bradford, and partly manufactured there ; at Norwich, and also in 

 Scotland ; part of the yarn is exported. Mr. Southey informs us, that the quantity of 

 goats' wool imported into the United Kingdom in 1848 was 896,865 Ibs. ; in 1849 the 

 quantity rose to 2,536,039 Ibs. 



The quantity of goats' wool or hair, in which the alpaca wool is included, was : 



In France this article is now applied to the manufacture of a new kind of lace, 

 which in a great measure supersedes the costly fabrics of Valenciennes and Chantilly. 

 The Angora-wool lace is more brilliant than that made from silk, and costing only 

 half the price, it has come into very general wear among the middle classes. The, 

 same material is also manufactured into shawls, which sell from il. to 161. each. 

 See MOHAIB and CASHMBRB. 



> The details not obtainable for 1872. . - 



