BUTTON MANUFACTURE 557 



towards the protruding shank ; and the edges of the fabric are then to be pressed over 

 the core, as is well understood, which will produce the partly formed button (fig. 296), 

 which is a side view, and consists of the shank containing the core, -which is next 

 inserted into the metal shell e(fig. 297), and these parts being placed in a suitable die, 

 are pressed together, and the partly manufactured button (Jig. 298) will be produced, 

 consisting of the shank containing the core, covered on the front surface with the 

 metal shell c, which, by the die. has its edges bent down on the fabric of the flexible 

 shank. The button, thus far formed, is now in a condition to be covered with a thin 

 plate of horn, which is performed in the following manner : d (fig. 299) shows a 

 disc of horn, cut out by suitable dies, the circumference being scolloped, in order 

 that in folding over the mould (fig. 298) the horn may not be puckered, e (Jig. 300) 

 shows a collet, for affixing the covering of horn to the button, the collet being similar 

 to that used in what is called 'Sandar's plan of making Florentine and other covered 

 buttons." 



The method of covering the mould of the button with horn is described as follows : 

 Fig. 301 represents, in section, a lower covering die, and also a proper punch for 

 pressing the parts into the lower die ; these dies being in a suitable press, as is 

 well understood. The lower die is to be kept heated to such an extent that the work- 

 man can just bear his hand to rest, for a very short time, on the upper surface of 

 the die ; the heating is preferred to be accomplished by means of a flame of gas 

 below the die ; and it will be seen that there are holes //, in the die, through which 

 the heat of the flame may pass, and g is an opening to allow of atmospheric air flowing 

 under the lower die. The disc of horn d is placed in the lower die g. The shape 

 or mould (fig. 298) is then placed on the horn, and the punch or die H, is caused to 

 descend, and press the parts into the die G ; and the punch H is then raised, in order 

 to allow of the introduction of the parts shown s&figs. 302 and 303, which consist of 

 the tube i, and the punch or diey. The lower edge of the tube i is made bell-mouthed, 

 so as to cause the scolloped edges to be pressed on the back of the buttons, and the 

 die or punchy' is to cause the collet to be forced through the horn in the button ; 

 and, in using these parts, the collet is placed in the tube i, which with its punch is 

 inserted into the die s, as shown at fig. 304, which figure represents the die G and 

 punch H in the condition just described, after having forced the parts into the die G ; 

 and this figure also shows the tube i, with a collet d and the punch or die J placed 

 in the tube i ; and all things are in a condition to receive the pressure of the punch H. 

 In order to prevent the pressure coming on the punch or die J before the horn has 

 been folded down by the tube i, the hollow block x is placed over the die or punch j ; 

 consequently when the punch H is caused to descend, it will force down the tube i, and 

 cause it to gather the edges of the horn, an4 press them on the back of the mould of 

 the button, when the punch H will be raised again, and the block removed, which will 

 leave all things in the position shown &tfig. 305; and then again, the bringing down 

 of the punch H will cause the die or punch j to descend, and force the collet into the 

 button, the die J being retained in the tube i by means of the pin z, passing through 

 a slit formed therein, which allows of the die j rising and falling in the tube i, but 

 prevents its coming out of that tubq. The button, thus far formed, is now in a con- 

 dition to be completed in the finishing dies (fig. 306), the lower dies being kept heated 

 in a similar manner to the die c. The dies being fixed in a suitable press, the button 

 to be finished is inserted into the die i, (which may be ornamented or plain), with the 

 shank upwards, and the punch or die M is caused to descend and press the button into 

 shape. 



When the front of the button is to be plain, the disc of horn should be polished 

 before being used for covering ; but when used to cover a button, and finished by an 

 engraved or ornamented die, the polishing is not necessary. The button being thus 

 made is to be finished by placing it in a lathe to be ' edged,' as is commonly practised 

 in finishing horn buttons. 



The patentee does not claim the means of making the mould or shape shown at fig. 

 298, nor the dies employed when separately considered, very similar dies having been 

 before used in the manufacture of other covered buttons ; nor does he confine him- 

 self thereto, so long as the peculiar character and essence of the invention be re- 

 tained ; viz., that of manufacturing covered buttons, made by dies and pressure by 

 the application of thin sheet horn as the covering material. He claims the mode 

 herein described of manufacturing covered buttons by the application of horn as a 

 covering material. 



. PORCELAIN BUTTONS. These buttons were first manufactured by Messrs. Minton and 

 Co. under Prosser's patent for the compression of dry porcelain clay in moulds (the 

 process will bo fully described under the head TESSEILZB). Several houses have adopted 

 the same process in this country. Mr. Bagaterasse has a large establishment at Briare, 

 whore he manufactures these buttons on a large scale, and being in competition with 



