CALICO-PRINTING 619 



VII. Tbrkey red and discharge. On dyed Turkey-red cloth is printed an acid, or 

 acid-solutions mixed -with pigments or salt of lead ; the printed pieces are passed 

 through chloride-of-15me solution, when chlorine is eliminated by the acid colours, and 

 discharges the red. The pigments or lead-salt being fixed in the cloth at the same 

 time, after washing and chroming where yellow has to be obtained, the piece 

 presents a pattern, bitten as it were in the Turkey-red ground. Black is also printed 

 along with the other colours. A modification of this style is the well-known Ban- 

 danna style used for handkerchiefs. Turkey-red cloth is folded in a hydraulic press 

 on a lead plate perforated with a pattern. When a sufficient number of folds are 

 made on this plate, a precisely similar plate is put on the top, so as to register accu- 

 rately with the bottom one ; pressure being now applied, the cloth is squeezed tightly 

 between the two plates, a tap being opened above the upper plate, solution of chlorine 

 is forced through the perforations, and in its passage through the cloth, discharges 

 the dye ; the chlorine liquor is followed by water, and the operation is finished : the 

 pieces when removed from the press being discharged, according to the pattern of the 

 lead plates. 



VIII. Steam-colours. In this style colours are formed from mixtures of dyewood ex- 

 tracts and mordants, together with various acids and salts, and being printed on calico 

 which has been mordanted with peroxide of tin, the pieces are exposed to steam at 212 

 in close vessels, which causes an intimate union of the calico with the dyewood extract 

 and mordant, so that subsequent washing with water removes only the thickening sub- 

 stance, and leaves the cloth dyed according to the pattern in various colours. Woollen 

 fabrics and de-laines are always printed in this manner, and also often silk ; animal 

 fabrics not being well adapted for mordanting and dyeing in the same manner as 

 cotton fabrics, owing to the peculiar property of wool to absorb colouring matters, 

 which renders the obtaining of whites, an impossibility where the wool is steeped in 

 a dye decoction. These steam-colours are very brilliant and tolerably permanent to 

 light, but do not withstand hot soap solution, which alters their shades. 



The invention of the superb colours made from aniline, which only dates from 1856 

 has caused a considerable alteration in the composition of steam-colours ; far more 

 beautiful shades are now produced from aniline colours than formerly was possible 

 from dyewood decoctions, and though not faster, in many cases not so fast to light 

 as these, some of them will bear a slight soaping with improvement in their tone. 

 Within the last five years the colouring matter of madder extracted in a tolerably 

 pure form has been successfully applied as a steam-colour, various shades of red, 

 pink, chocolate, and purple are produced from extracts of madder mixed with 

 aluminous, ferruginous, or chromous salts of volatile acids and the colours thus cam- 

 posed are thickened, printed, and fixed by steaming. These colours, when properly 

 made and fixed, are as fast to soap and light as those of maddered dyed goods. Still 

 later the alizarine artificially made from anthracene has been applied to the same 

 purposes as extracts of madder. 



IX. Pigment-printing. The colours in this class are the same pigments as used by 

 painters, such as Scheele's green, ultramarine blue, chrome yellow, &c., and being 

 quite insoluble in water are, so to speak, cemented to the fibre. The vehicle used 

 for fixing these, is generally albumen, which coagulates when the cloth is steamed, and 

 imprisons both cloth and fibre with the coagulum ; of course these colours, though not 

 altered in shade by soap, are detached in part by severe treatment, such as rubbing, &c. 



Tho last two classes melt into each other in the very beautiful steam chintz styles, 

 where aniline black (described hereafter), madder extract or alizarine reds, pinks, and 

 purples, pigment green, blue, or other pigment shades, and aniline violets are simul- 

 taneously printed, fixed by steaming and soaped, thus producing delicate patterns 

 which under no circumstances could be done by madder dyeing, aided by the subse- 

 quent introduction of steam-colours. When albumen is used in sufficient quantity for 

 the pigments and aniline violets, these colours are quite as fast as those with madder 

 extract or alizarine, and even compare favourably with madder-dyed shades. 



X. Spirit-colours are made in somewhat the same manner as the steam-colours, but 

 contain larger quantities of mordant and acid, and would not bear steaming, because the 

 calico would be too much tendered by the acid, and are therefore only dried and hung 

 up a day or two, and then washed in water. They are the most brilliant colours, but 

 generally fugitive, and are not much used. 



XI. Bronzes : formerly a style in large demand, but now almost obsolete ; done by 

 padding the cloth in solution of protochloride of manganese, precipitating the oxide 

 by means of alkali, peroxidising this by chloride of lime, and then printing on 

 colours composed of protochloride of tin and pigments or decoctions ; the protochloride 

 of tin immediately deoxidises, bleaching the brown oxide of manganese, and, where 

 mixed with decoctions or pigment, leaving a dyed pattern cutting through the ground. 



