526 



FUSTIAN 



No. 13. Plain Velveteen. 



No. 14. Genoa Velveteen. 



The additional varieties of figure which might be given are almost endless, but the 

 limits of this article will not admit a further detail. Those already given are the 

 articles in most general use. The varieties of fancy may be indulged to great extent, 

 but it is universally found, that the most simple patterns in every department of orna- 

 mental weaving, are those which attract attention and command purchasers. We shall 

 therefore only add an example of king's cord or corduroy, and of Dutch cord, with one 

 of Genoa and one of common velvet, to show the peculiarities. 



No. 15. King's Cord. 



No. 16. Dutch Cord. 



1 1 



| | 



I I |0| I 

 ~l I |0|0| I I 



I |0| I I 0| 

 101 I 101 I 



No, 17. Genoa Velvet. 



No. 18. Plain Velvet. 



2 4 8 IS 

 6 75 



10 11 9 



1 3 



7 5 



428 



After the fustian cloth is taken from the loom-beam, it is carried to the cutter, who, 

 rips up the surface -threads of weft, and produces thereby a hairy-looking stuff. 



Preparatory to its being cut, the cloth is spread evenly upon a table about six feet 

 long, upon each end of which a roller mounted with a ratchet-wheel is fixed : the one 

 to give off, and the other to wind up the piece, in the above six-feet lengths. 



The knife is a steel rod about two feet long, and three-eighths of an inch square, 

 having a square handle at the one end ; the other end is tapered away to a blade, as 

 thin as paper. To prevent this point from turning downwards and injuring the cloth, 

 its under side is covered by a guide which serves to stiffen it, as well as to prevent its 

 lower edge from cutting the fustian. 



The operative (male or female) grasps the handle in the right hand, and insinuating 

 the projecting point of the guide under the weft, pushes the knife smartly forward 

 though the whole length of six feet, with a certain dexterous movement of the shoulder 

 and right side, balancing the body meanwhile, like a fencer, upon the left foot. This 

 process is repeated upon every adhesive line of the weft. 



The next process to which fustians are exposed is steeping in hot water, to take out 

 the dressing paste. They are then dried, reeled, and brushed by a machine. &<. 

 From twenty to thirty pieces, each eighty yards long, may bo brushed in an hour. 

 The breadth of the cloth is twenty inches. The maceration is performed by immers- 

 ing the bundled pieces in tanks of water, heated by waste steam ; and the washing by 

 means of a seel or winch, kept revolving rapidly under the action of a stream of cold 

 water, for an hour or longer. 



After being thus ripped up, it is taken to the brushing or teazling machine, to make 

 it shaggy. 



This consists of a series of wooden rollers, turning freely upon iron axl(>.. nnd 

 covered with tin-plate, rough with the burs of punched holes ; :ml blocks f won, I, 

 whoso concave under surfaces are covered with card-cloth or card-brushes, and which 



