786 



HAT MANUFACTURE 



water-wheel, &c.) to tho drum on tho main-shaft a a. From this drum a strap 

 passes over tho rigger b, which actuates tho axle of the lathe A. On to this lathe 



1129 H30 /* N 1131 



a sort of chuck is screwed, and to the chuck the block c is made fast by screws, 

 bolts, or pins. This block is represented in section, in order to show the manner 

 in which it is made, of several pieces held fast by the centre wedge-piece, as seen 

 at fig. 1129. 



The hat-block being made to turn round with the chuck, at the rate of about twenty 

 turns per minute, but in the opposite direction to the revolution of an ordinary turning 

 lathe, the workman applies his hot iron to the surface of the hat, and thereby amooths 

 it, giving a beautiful glossy appearance to the beaver ; he then applies a plush cushion, 

 and rubs round the surface of the hat while it is still revolving. The hat, with its 

 block, is now removed to the lathe B, where it is placed upon the chuck d, and made to 

 turn in a horizontal direction, at the rate of about twenty revolutions per minute, for 

 the purpose of ironing the flat top of the crown. This lathe B moves upon an upright 

 shaft e, and is actuated by a twisted band passing from the main-shaft round the 

 rigger /. In order to iron the upper surface of the brim, the block c is removed from 

 the lathe, and taken out of the hat, when the block, fig. 1130, is mounted upon the 

 chuck d, and made to turn under the hand of the workman, as before. 



The hat is now to be removed to the lathe c, where it is introduced in an inverted 

 position, between the arms g g supporting the rim h h, the top surface of which is 

 shown at fig. 1131. The spindle i of the lathe turns by similar means to the last, 

 but slower : only ten turns per minute will be sufficient. The workman now smooths 

 the under side of the brim, by drawing the iron across it, that is, from the centre 

 outwards. The hat is then carefully examined, and all the burs and coarse hairs 

 picked out, after which the smoothing process is performed as before, and tho 

 dressing of the hat is complete. This description of tho manufacture of the beaver 

 hat has been retained, though it is now but little practised, tho silk hat having taken 

 its place. 



Silk hats, for several years after they were manufactured, were liable to two objec- 

 tions : first, tho body or shell over which the silk covering is laid, was, from its 

 hardness, apt to hurt the head ; second, the edgo of tho crown being much exposed 

 to blows, the silk nap soon got abraded, so as to lay bare the cotton foundation, which 

 is not capable of taking so fine a black dye as the silk ; whence the hat assumed a 

 shabby appearance. Messrs. Mayhew & White, of London, proposed to remedy these 

 defects, by making tho hat-body of stuff or wool, and relieving tho stiffness of tho 

 inner part round the brim, by attaching a coating of beaver upon the under side of 

 the brim, so as to render the hat pliable. Round the edgo of the tip or crown, a 

 quantity of what is called stop-wool is to bo attached by tho ordinary operation of 

 bowing, which will render the edge soft and elastic. Tho hat is to be afterwar^ 

 of a good black colour, both outside and inside ; and being then properly stiffened 

 and blocked, is ready for the covering of silk. 



The plush employed for covering silk hats is a raised nap or pile woven usually 

 upon a cotton foundation ; and the cotton, being incapable of receiving the same 

 brilliant black dye as the Bilk, renders the hat apt to turn brown whenever the silk 

 nap is partially worn off. To counteract this evil, tho foundation of the plush is no\r 



