790 HAT MANUFACTURE 



or tlio naphtha of wood-vinogar, is generally employed as the stiffening and water- 

 proof ingredient of hat-bodies. A solution of caoutchouc is often applied to whale- 

 bone and horsehair hat-bodies. 



The following recipe has been prescribed as a good composition for stiffening hats : 

 4 parts of shellac ; 1 part of mastic ; ^ part of turpentine ; dissolved in 5 parts of 

 alcohol, by agitation and subsequent repose, without the aid of heat. This stiffening- 

 varnish should be applied quickly to the body or foundation with a soft oblong brush, 

 in a dry and rather warm workshop ; the hat being previously fitted with its inside 

 turned outwards upon a block. The body must bo immediately afterwards taken off, 

 to prevent adhesion. 



Another method of proceeding is, first to dissolve tho gums by agitation in twice 

 the due quantity of spirits, whether of wood or wine, and then, after complete solu- 

 tion, draw off one half the spirit in a still, so as to bring the stiffening to a proper 

 consistency. No sediment subsequently appears on diluting this solution, however 

 much it may be done. 



Both the spirit and alkali stiffenings for hats made by the following two recipes, 

 have been tried by some of the first houses in the trade, and have been much ap- 

 proved of : 



Spirit-Stiffening. 



7 Ibs. of orange shellac. 



2 Ibs. of gum sandarac. 



4 oz. of gum mastic. 



Ib. of amber resin. 



1 pint of solution of -copal. 



1 gallon of spirit of wine or -wood-naphtha. 



The shellac, sandarac, mastic, resin, are dissolved in the spirit, and the solution of 

 copal is added last. 



Alkali-Stiffening. 



1 1bs. of common block shellac. 



1 Ib. of amber resin. 



4 oz. of gum thus, 



4 oz. of gum mastic. 



6 oz. of borax. 



\ pint of solution of copal. 



The borax is first dissolved in a little warm water (say 1 gallon) ; this alkaline 

 liquor is now put into a copper pan (heated by steam), together with the shellac, resin, 

 thus, and mastic, and allowed to boil for some time, more warm water being added 

 occasionally until it is of a proper consistence. 



Hat-Dyeing. The ordinary bath for dyeing hats employed by tho London manu- 

 facturers consists, for 12 dozen, of 



144 Ibs. of logwood. 



12 Ibs. of green sulphate of iron, or copperas. 

 7s Ibs. of verdigris. 



The copper is usually made of a semi-cylindrical shape, and should be surrounded 

 with an iron jacket or case, into which steam may be admitted, so as to raise the tem- 

 perature of the interior bath to 190 F., but no higher, otherwise tho heat is apt to 

 affect the stiffening varnish, called the gum, with which the body of the hat has been 

 imbued. The logwood having been introduced and digested for some time, the 

 copperas and verdigris are added in successive quantities, and the above proportions, 

 along with every successive two or three dozens of hats, suspended upon tho dipping- 

 machine. Each set of hats, after being exposed to tho bath with occasional airings 

 during 40 minutes, is taken off the pegs, and laid out upon tho ground to bo more 

 completely blackened by the peroxidation of tho iron with the atmospheric oxygen. 

 In 3 or 4 hours tho dyeing is completed. When fully dyed, tho hats are well washrd 

 in running water. 



Mr. Buffum states that there are four principal objects accomplished by his patent 

 invention for dyeing hats : 



1. In tho operation ; 



2. Tho production of a better colour ; 



3. The prevention of any of the damages to which hats are liable in tho dyeing ; 



4. The accomplishment of tho dyeing process in a much shorter time than by the 

 usual methods, and consequently lessoning tho injurious effects of tho dye-bath upon 

 the texture of the hat. 



