814 



HOSIERY 



1155 



one either to work coarser or finer work, as it may bo wanted. But in tho mamifact uro 



of hosiery, a frame onco finished, 

 is limited for over in its opera- 

 tion to tho same quality of work, 

 with this exception, that by 

 changing the stuff, tho work may 

 be made a little moro dense or 

 flimsy ; but no alteration in tho 

 size or quantity of loops can take 

 place. Hence where the manu- 

 facture- is extensively prosecuted, 

 many frames may be thrown id In 

 by every vicissitude of demand ; 

 and where a poor mechanic does 

 purchase his own frame ho is for 

 ever limited to tho same kind 

 of work. Tho gauge, as it is 

 called, of a stocking-frame is re-: 

 gulated by the number of loops 

 contained in three inches of 

 breadth, and varies very much ; 

 the coarsest frames in common 

 use being about what are termed 

 Eourteens, and the finest em- 

 ployed in great extent about 

 Forties. The needles are of iron 

 wire, the manufacture of which 

 is very simple ; but long practice 

 in the -art is found necessary before a needle-maker acquires the dexterity which will 

 enable him both to execute his work well, and in sufficient quantity to render his 

 labour productive. 



The process of making the needles is as follows : Good sound iron wire, of a proper 

 fineness, is to bo selected ; that which is liable to split or splinter, either in filing, 

 punching, or bending, being totally unfit for tho purpose. The wire is firstto be cut 

 into proper lengths, according to the fineness of tho frame for which the needles are 

 designed, coarse needles being considerably longer than fine ones. When a sufficient 

 number (generally some thousands) have been cut, the wire must be softened as much 

 as possible. This is done by laying them in rows in a flat iron box, about an inch 

 deep, with a close cover ; the box being filled with charcoal between the strata of wires. 

 This box, being placed upon a moderate fire, is gradually heated until both the wires 

 and charcoal have received a moderate red heat, because, were the heat increased to 

 what smiths term the white heat, the wire would be rendered totally unfit for the sub- 

 sequent processes which it has to undergo, both in finishing and working. When the 

 box has been sufficiently heated, it may be taken from the fire, and placed among hot 

 ashes until both ashes and box have gradually cooled ; for tho slower the wires cool, 

 tho softer and easier wrought they will be. When perfectly cool, the next process is 

 to punch a longitudinal groove in the stem of every needle, which receives tho point 

 or barb, when depressed. This is done by means of a small engine worked by tho 



power of a screw and lever. The construction of 

 these engines is various ; but a profile elevation of 

 one of the most simple and commonly used will be 

 found in Jig. 1156. It consists of two very strong 

 pieces of malleable iron, represented at A and c, 

 and these two pieces are connected by a strong 

 well-fitted joint at B. The lower piece, or solo of 

 the engine at c, is screwed down by bolts t.o a 

 strong board or table, and tho upper piece A wijl 

 then rise or gink at pleasure, upon the joint n. In 

 order that A may bo very steady in rising and 

 sinking, which is indispensable to its correct ope- 

 ration, a strong bridle of iron, which is shown in 

 section at E, is added to confine it, and direct its motion. In tho upper part of this 

 bridle is a female screw, through which the forcing screw passes, which is turned by 

 the handle or lever D. To the tolo of the engine c is fixed a bolster of temper* 

 with a small groove to receive the wire which is to bo punched; and in the upper i.r 

 moving part A, is a sharp chisel, which descends exactly into the groove, wh 

 depressed by the screw. These are represented at F, and above H. At o is a strong 



1150 



