96 LEATHER, CURRYING OF 



a whitish, body, derived from the bark called bloom ; this is more or less difficult to 

 remove according to the hardness or softness of the water used in tanning, and the 

 peculiar treatment of the tanner. It is, however, the currier's business to remove it, 

 which he effects thus : In the case of leather whose grain is tender, as cordovan, 

 which is manufactured from horse-hides, the grain being kept uppermost, the leather 

 is spread on the scouring-stone, and being plentifully supplied with water, is stretched 

 by using the slicker, or a fine pebble, ground to the shape of the stock-stone, the bloom 

 is thus loosened, and at the same time, by making it adhere to the scouring-stone, the 

 next operation is readily carried on, which consists in smartly brushing the grain with 

 a Itiff-haired brush, and at the same time keeping a quantity of water on the surface, 

 the slicker is again used to remove the water and loosened bloom, and the scouring is 

 complete. In the scouring of calf-skins, and cow- or ox-hides, the stock-stone is used 

 to fix the leather, and a piece of pumice-stone, the face of which has been ground to 

 smoothness, and afterwards cut in grooves, is then forcibly rubbed over the grain, in 

 order to remove the bloom. In this, as in other operations on the scouring-stone, 

 water is a necessary ingredient. The bloom being sufficiently loosened by the pumice- 

 stone, the brush is used to scrub up the remaining dirt, which is then removed by the 

 stock-stone or slicker. In harness leather, which is stout, and requires to be stretched 

 as much as possible, the pumice-stone is seldom used, the stock-stone and scouring- 

 brush being lustily applied until the bloom is sufficiently removed. Ordinary manu- 

 facturers within the present (nineteenth) century have considered the operations of 

 the scouring -house complete at this point. The modern currier takes a different view, 

 and not unfrequently detains his scoured property for days, and sometimes for weeks, 

 in the scouring-house. 



If the leather is imperfectly tanned, or it is required to be made of a bright colour, 

 there are other processes to be passed through. In these cases sumach (an ever- 

 green shrub of the natural order Anacardiacea, genus Ehus, and from the bark of 

 which all the leather made in Turkey is said to be tanned) is infused in boiling 

 water, and when cooled to a tepid state the leather is placed in it. After staying 

 a sufficient time it is taken to the scouring-stone ; if cordovan, it is slicked as dry as 

 can be well accomplished on the flesh side ; other leather is for the most part slicked 

 in a similar way on the grain side. Saddle leather, which is required to be of a 

 bright colour, is still further placed in warm water slightly acidulated with sulphuric 

 or oxalic acid, or both ; here for a time it is kept in motion, then taken to the 

 scouring-stone, it is washed with peculiar chemical lotions, according to the taste or 

 knowledge of the workman ; then again it is dipped in tepid sumach infusion, then 

 slicked with a copper or brass slicker (iron is liable to stain leather thus prepared), 

 and a thin coat of oil being applied to either side, it is removed to the drying-loft. 

 Until within a very few years much time and trouble were taken to produce very 

 bright leather for the saddler ; but of late brown-coloured leather has been adopted 

 to a considerable extent, as it is less liable to become soiled. Nearly all leather is 

 placed a short time in the loft before further manipulations are carried on, in order to 

 harden it slightly by drying. 



lu the drying-loft, or its immediate vicinity, the leather receives the dubbing (daub- 

 ing, probably) or stuffing. The substance so called is composed of tallow, brought to 

 a soft plastic condition by being melted and mixed with cod-liver oil ; occasionally sod 

 (an oil made in preparing sheep-skins) is, in very small quantities, added to the mix- 

 ture. This is laid upon the leather either with a soft-haired brush or a mop made 

 generally of rags. 



The leather is prepared for stuffing by wetting slightly such parts as have become 

 too dry. It is then taken to the table previously described, which, being slightly 

 oiled, the process is carried on by placing the skin on the table in the manner most 

 convenient for stretching it and making the surface smooth. In those kinds that 

 have a rough wrinkled grain the flesh side is placed next the table, and the stock- 

 stone is used very smartly to stretch and smooth the grain. A kind of clamp or hold- 

 fast, composed of two cheeks fastened with a screw, is sometimes used to prevent the 

 leather from moving during this operation, but in general these are not required ; 

 the slicker is then applied to remove the marks left by the stock-stone, and a thin 

 stuffing being spread over the grain it is turned over, slicked on the flesh lightly, a 

 coat of stuffing is spread over it, and it is hung up to dry. In those kinds which 

 have to be blacked (or stained) on the grain, a little cod-oil only is spread on the 

 grain, and the slicker is applied on the flesh side most laboriously previous to stuffing. 

 Much skill is required to give the requisite quantity of stuff" (dubbing) to the leather 

 without excess, excess being injurious, and the quantity required is further regulated 

 by the freshness or otherwise of the leather, the tan-yard from which it comes, and 

 the treatment it has received in the scouring-house. 



When dry, the skins or hides are folded together, to remain until required. It is 



