PERFUMERY 



5S7 



Oil of English lavender 

 Rectified spirit 60 o. p. 

 Rose-water . 



8 ounces 

 8 pints 

 1 pint 



Mix the oil first with the spirit, then gradually add the water ; finally, distil off eight 

 pints for sale. This distillate is unalterable by age, remains perfectly white, and will 

 keep good in any climate. A great variety of scented spirits are made in this way, of 

 which Hungary water and Eau d'Arquebuzade are good examples, the different scent 

 or flavour being imparted by varying the combination of essential oils. 



2. All essential oils being soluble in alcohol, a ready way of producing some kinds 

 of concentrated essences is to dissolve the fragrant essential oil in the spirit. Thus, for 



Essence of Hoses. 



Take alcohol, 60 o. p. 

 pure otto of roses 



1 gallon. 

 3 ounces. 



The oil quickly dissolves at a summer heat ; but, in cold weather, beautiful 

 acicular crystals appear throughout the liquid. Innumerable other concentrated 

 essences may be produced in a similar way ; but the standard strength varies with 

 the oil used. Thus, for every gallon of spirit employed we should use 2 ounces 

 of oil of vitivert, 3 ounces of oil of patchouli, 6 ounces of oil of geranium, 8 ounces of 

 otto santal, &c. 



3. TINCTUHATION. Musk, orris-root, ambergris, tonquin-beans, castor, vanilla, 

 civet, and a few other odorous substances, yield their odours to spirit by tinctura- 

 tion, that is, by putting the fragrant material into the spirit, and allowing it to 

 remain there for a period till the alcohol has extracted all the scent. The standard 

 strength of these tinctures should be : for one gallon of alcohol, 2 ounces of grain 

 musk, 3 ounces of ambergris, 8 ounces of vanilla, 8 Ibs. of orris-root, 1 Ib. of tonquin- 

 beans. The standard strength of these essences is regulated, like that of ' jewellers' 

 gold,' by the selling price ; but the above is that figuratively indicated as alone worthy 

 of the ' hall-mark.' 



4. ENFLEURAGE ESSENCES. The great bulk of the fine quality perfumes are pro- 

 cured by extracting the fragrance from the enfleurage-made pomades and oils, by 

 contact of fine alcohol with the grease or oil. The pomade is chopped up very fine 

 and put into the spirit, and allowed to remain together for one month at a summer 

 heat. 



Supposing the finest, or No. 24, pomade or oil is used, the standard strength of 

 these essences should be : for one gallon spirit rectified 60 over proof, of rose pomade 

 or oil, 8 Ibs. ; of acacia, 6 Ibs. ; of orange-flower, 8 Ibs. ; of jasmin, tuberose, violet, 

 jonquil, 7 Ibs. 



If oils be used, the spirit and oil require to be well shaken together daily, because 

 tho oils, by their greater specific gravity, sink out of contact with the spirit. By 

 continual agitation, the oils will not require many hours to part with their fragrance, 

 in consequence of the mechanical subdivision which they are capable of, and hence 

 are more intimately blended for the time with the spirit. 



In this way are obtained essences of tuberose, orange-flowers, violet, jonquil, rose, 

 acacia, and jasmin. What are called 'bouquets' and 'nosegays' are .mere mixtures 

 of the above primitive odours. A few examples we now give : 



Her Majesty's Perfume. 



Enfleurage rose. 

 ,, violet 

 ,, orange 



Essence of rose . 

 Enfleurage rose 

 Tincture orris . 

 vanilla 



1 pint. 



Enfleurage tuberose 

 Tincture orris . 

 vanilla . 



Albion Nosegay. 



1 pint. 

 1 



Tincture musk 

 castor 

 Essence of bergamot 



i pint. 



4 " 



. I pint. 



Enfleurage rose 

 Essence of rose 

 Enfleurage acacia 



White Roses. 



1 pint. 

 1 



Enfleurage jasmin 

 Essence patchouli 



\ pint. 



