980 



TEXTILE FABRICS 



moved, so that ono or more may be raised or sunk by every treddle successively, as 

 may be required to produce the peculiar pattern. These connections being made by 

 coupling the different parts of the apparatus by cords, this operation is called the 

 ' cording.' In order to direct the operator in this part of his business, especially if pre- 

 viously unacquainted with the particular pattern upon which he is employed, plans 

 are drawn upon paper, specimens of which will be found in jigs. 1948, 1949, &c. 

 These plans are horizontal sections of a loom, the heddles being represented across 

 the paper at a, and the treddles under them, and crossing them at right angles at b. 

 In Jigs. 19^18 and 1949 they are represented as if they were distinct pieces of wood, 

 those across being the under shatt of each leaf of heddles, and those at the loft 

 hand the treddles. See WEAVING. In actual weaving, the treddles are placed at right 

 angles to the heddles, the sinking cords descending perpendicularly as nearly as pos- 

 sible to the centre of the latter. Placing them at the left hand, therefore, is only for 



1948 



1949 



ready inspection, and for practical convenience. At c a few threads of warp are shown 

 as they pass through the needles, and the thick lines denote the leaf with which each 

 thread is connected. Thus, in fig. 1948, the right-hand thread, next to a, passes 

 through the eye of a heddle upon the back leaf, and is disconnected with all the other 

 leaves ; the next thread passes through a heddle on the second leaf ; the third, through 

 the third leaf; the fourth, through the fourth leaf; and the fifth, through the fifth or 

 front leaf. One set of the draught being now completed, the weaver recommences with 

 the back leaf, and proceeds in the same succession again to the front. Two sets of the 

 draught are represented in this figure, and the same siiccession, it is understood by 

 weavers (who seldom draw more than one set), must be repeated until all the warp is 

 included. When they proceed to apply the cords, the right-hand part of the plan at 

 b, serves as a guide. In all the plans shown by these figures, excepting one which 

 shall be noticed, a connection must be formed, by cording, between every leaf of 

 heddles and every treddle : for all the leaves must either rise or sink. The raising 

 motion is effected by coupling the leaf to one end of its correspondent top lever ; the 

 other end of this lever is tied to the long march below, and this to the treddle. The 

 sinking connection is carried directly from under the leaf to the treddle. To direct a 

 weaver which of these connections is to bo formed with each treddle, a black spot is 

 placed when a leaf is to be raised, where the leaf and treddle intersect each other upon 

 the plan, and the sinking connections are left blank. jFor example, to cord the treddle 

 1, to the back leaf, put a raising cord, and to each of the other four, sinking cords ; 

 for the treddle 2, raise the second leaf, and sink the remaining four, and so of the rest; 

 the spot always denoting the leaf or leaves to be raised. The^s. 1948 and 1949 are 

 drawn for the purpose of rendering the general principle of this kind of plans familiar 

 to those who have not been previously acquainted with them ; but those who have 

 been accustomed to manufacture and weave ornamented cloths, never consume time by 

 representing either heddles or treddles as solid or distinct bodies. They content them- 

 selves with ruling a number of lines across a piece of paper, sufficient to make the 

 intervals between these lines represent the number of leaves required. Upon these 

 intervals, they merely mark the succession of the draught, without producing every 

 line to resemble a thread of warp. At the left hand, they draw as many lines across 

 the former as will afford an interval for each treddle : and in the squares produced by 

 the intersections of these lines, they place the dots, spots, or ciphers which denote the 

 raising cords. It is also common to continue the cross lines which denote the treddle 

 a considerable length beyond the intersections, and to mark by dots, placed diagonally 

 in the intervals, the order or succession in which the treddles are to be pressed down in 

 weaving. The former of these modes has been adopted in the remaining^.?, to 1957 ; 

 but to save room, the latter has been avoided, and the succession marked by the order 

 of the figures under the intervals which denote the treddles. 



Some explanation of the various kinds of fanciful cloths represented by these plans 

 may serve further to illustrate this subject, which is, perhaps, the most important of 

 any connected with the manufacture of cloth, and will also enable a person who 

 thoroughly studies them, readily to acquire a competent knowledge of the other 

 varieties in weaving, which are boundless. Figs. 1948 and 1949 represent the draught 

 and cording of the two varieties of tweeled cloth wrought with five leaves of heddJes. 



