TEXTILE FABRICS 



981 



The first is the regular or run tweel, "which, as every leaf rises in regular succession, 

 while the rest are sunk, interweaves the warp and woof only at every fifth interval, 

 and as the succession is uniform, the cloth, when woven, presents the appearance of 

 parallel diagonal lines, at an angle of about 45 over the whole surface. A tweel may 

 have the regularity of its diagonal lines broken by applying the cording as in fiff. 

 1949. It will be observed, that in both figures the draught of the warp is precisely 

 the same, and that the whole difference of the two plans consists in the order of placing 

 the spots denoting the raising cords, the first being regular and successive, and the 

 second alternate. 



1950 19-51 



Figs. 1950 and 1951 are the regular and broken tweels which maybe produced with 

 eight leaves. This properly is the tweel denominated ' satin ' in the silk manufacture, 

 although many webs of silk wrought with only five leaves receive that appellation. 

 Some of the finest Florentine silks are tweeled with sixteen leaves. When the 

 broken tweel of eight leaves is used, the effect is much superior to what could be 

 produced by a smaller number ; for in this two leaves are passed in every interval, 

 which gives a much nearer resemblance to plain cloth than the others. For this reason it 

 is preferred in weaving the finest damasks. The draught of the eight-leaf tweel differs 

 in nothing from the others, excepting in the number of leaves. The difference of the 

 cording in the broken tweel will appear by inspecting the ciphers which mark the 

 raising cords, and comparing them with those of the broken tweel of five leaves. Fig. 

 1952 represents the draught and cording of striped dimity of a tweel of five leaves. 

 This is the most simple species of fanciful tweeling. It consists of ten leaves, or 

 double the number of the common tweel. These ten leaves are moved by only five 

 treddles, in the same manner as a common tweel. The stripe is formed by one set of 

 the leaves flushing the warp, and the other set, the woof. The figure represents a 

 stripe formed by ten threads, alternately drawn through each of the two sets of leaves. 

 In this case, the stripe and the intervals will be equally broad, and what is the stripe 

 upon one side of the cloth will be the interval upon the other, and vice versa. But 

 great variety of patterns may be introduced by drawing the warp in greater or small 

 portions through either set. The tweel is of the regular kind, but may be broken by 

 placing the cording as infy. 1949. It will be observed that the cording-marks of 

 the lower or front leaves are exactly the converse of the other set ; for where a raising 

 mark is placed upon one, it is marked for sinking in the other ; that is to say, the 

 mark is omitted ; and all loaves which sink in the one, are marked for raising in the 

 other; thus, one thread rises in succession in the back set, and four sink; but in the 

 front set, four rise, and only one sinks. The woof, of course, passing over the four 

 sunk threads, and under the raised one, in the first instance, is flushed above ; but 



1952 



1953 



where the reverse takes place, as in the second it is flushed below ; and thus the 

 appearance of a stripe is formed. The analogy subsisting between striped dimity and 

 dornock is so great, that before noticing the plan for fancy dimity, it may be proper 

 to allude to the dornock, the plan of which is represented l>yjiff. 1953. 



The draught of dornock is precisely the same in every respect with that of striped 

 dimity. It also consists of two sets of tweeling heddles, whether three, four, or five 

 leaveshare used for each set. The right-hand set of treddles is also corded exactly in 

 the same way, as will appear by comparing them. But as the dimity is a continued 

 stripe from the beginning to the end of the web, only five treddles are required to move 

 ten leaves. The dornock being chequer-work, the weaver must possess the power of 

 reversing this at pleasure. He therefore adds five more treddles, the cording of which 

 is exactly the reverse of the former ; that is to say, the back leaves, in the former case, 



