982 



TEXTILE FABRICS 



having one leaf raised, and four sunk, have, by working with these additional treddles, 

 one leaf sunk and four leaves raised. The front leaves are in the same manner reversed, 

 and the mounting is complete. So long as the weaver continues to work with either 

 set, a stripe will be formed, as in the dimity ; but when he changes his feet from one 

 set to the other, the whole effect is reversed, and the chequers formed. The dornock 

 pattern upon the design -paper, fg. 1953, may be thus explained : let every square of 

 the design represent five threads upon either set of the heddles, which are said by 

 weavers to be once over the draught, supposing the tweel to be one of five leaves ; draw 

 three parallel lines, as under, to form two intervals, each representing one of the sets; 

 the draught will then be as follows : 



1954 



The above is exactly so much of the pattern as is there laid down, to show its ap- 

 pearance ; but one whole range of the pattern is completed by the figure 1, nearest to 

 the right hand upon the lower interval between the lines, and the remaining figures, 

 nearer to the right, form the beginning of a second range or set. These are to be re- 

 peated in the same way across the whole warp. The lower interval represents the 

 five front leaves ; the upper interval, the five back ones. The first figure 4, denotes 

 that five threads are to be successively drawn upon the back leaves, and this operation 

 repeated four times. The first figure 4, in the lower interval, expresses that the 

 same is to be done upon the front leaves ; and each figure, by its diagonal position, 

 shows how often, and in what succession, five threads are to be drawn upon the leaves 

 which the interval in which it is placed represents. 



Dornocks of more extensive patterns are sometimes woven with 3, 4, 5, and even 6 

 set of leaves ; but after the leaves exceed 15 in number, they both occupy an incon- 

 venient space, and are very unwieldly to work. For these reasons the diaper harness 

 is in almost every instance preferred. 



Fig. 1955 represents the draught and cording of a fanciful species of dimity, in 

 which it will be observed that the warp is not drawn directly from the back to the 

 front leaf, as in the former examples ; but when it has arrived at either external leaf, 

 the draught is reversed, and returns gradually to the other. The same draught is fre- 

 quently used in the tweeling, when it is wished that the diagonal lines should appear 

 \ipon the cloth in a zigzag direction. This plan exhibits the draught and cording which 

 will produce the pattern upon the design-paper in fig. 1948. Were all the squares 

 produced by the intersection of the lines denoting the leaves and treddles, where the 

 raised dots are placed, filled the same as on the design, they would produce the effoct 

 of exactly one fourth of that pattern. This is caused by the reversing of the draught, 

 which gives the other side reversed as on the design ; and when all treddles, from 1 

 to 16, have been successively used in the working, one-half of the pattern will become 

 complete. The weaver then goes again over his treddles, in the reversed order of the 

 numbers, from 17 to 30, when the other half of the pattern will be completed. From 

 this similarity of the cording to the design, it is easy, when a design is given, to make 



1955 



1956 



out the draught and cording proper to work it ; and when the cording is given, to see 

 its effect upon the design. 



Fig. 1956 represents the draught of the diaper mounting, and the cording of the 

 front leaves which are moved by treddles. From the plan, it will appear that five 

 threads are included in every mail of the harness, and that these are drawn in single 

 threads through the front leaves. The cording forms an exception to the general rules, 

 that when one or more leaves are raised, all the rest must be sunk ; for in this instance, 

 one leaf rises, one sinks, and three remain stationary. An additional mark, therefore, 

 is used in this plan. The dots, as formerly, denote raising corcle ; the blanks, 

 sinking cords ; and where the cord is to be totally omitted, the cross marks x are 

 placed. 



Fig. 1057 is the draught and cording of a spot whose two sides arc similar, but 

 reversed. That upon the plan forms a diamond, similar to the one drawn upon the 



