TEXTILE FABRICS 



983 



design-paper in the diagram, but smaller in size. The draught here is reversed, as in 

 the dimity plan, and the treading is also to be reversed, after arriving at 6, to complete 

 the diamond. Like it, too, the raising marks form one-fourth of the pattern. In 

 weaving spots, they are commonly placed at intervals, with a portion of plain cloth 

 between them, and in alternate rows, the spots of one row being between those of the 

 other. But as intervals of plain cloth must take place, both by the warp and woof, 2 

 leaves are added for that purpose. The front, or ground leaf, includes every second 

 thread of the whole warp ; the second, or plain leaf, that part which forms the inter- 

 vals by the warp. The remaining leaves form the spots : the first six being allotted 

 to one row of spots, and the second six to the next row, where each spot is in the 

 centre between the former. The reversed draught of the first is shown entire, and ic 



1957 



1958 



la 



succeeded by 12 threads of plain. One-half of the draught of the next row is then 

 given, which is to be completed exactly like the first, and succeeded by 12 threads 

 more of plain ; when, one set of the pattern being finished, the same succession is to 

 be repeated over the whole warp. As spots are formed by inserting woof of coarser 

 dimensions than that which forms the fabric, every second thread only is allotted for 

 the spotting. Those included in the front, or ground leaf are represented by lines, 

 and the spot-threads between them, by marks in the intervals, as in the other plans. 



The treddles necessary to work this spot are, in number, 14. Of these the two in the 

 centre, a, b, (fig. 1957) when pressed alternately, will produce plain cloth ; for b raises 

 the front leaf, which includes half the warp, and sinks all the rest ; while a exactly 

 reverses the operation. The spot-trcddles on the right hand work the row contained 

 in the first six spot-leaves : and those upon the left hand, the row contained in the 

 second six. In working spots, one thread, or shot of spotting-woof, and two of plain, 

 are successively inserted, by means of two separate shuttles. 



Dissimilar spots are those whose sides are quite different from each other. The 

 draught only of these is represented by Jiff. 1958. The cording depends entirely 

 upon the figure. 



Fig. 1959 represents any solid body composed of parts lashed together. If the 

 darkened squares be supposed to be beams of wood, connected by cordage, they will 

 give a precise idea of textile fabric. The beams cannot come into actual contact, 

 because, if the lashing cords were as fine even as human hairs, they must still require 

 space. The thickness is that of one beam and one cord ; but if the cords touch each 

 other, it may then be one beam and two cords ; but it is not possible in practical 

 weaving to bring every thread of weft into actual contact. It may, therefore, be 

 assumed, that the thickness is equal to the diameter of one thread of the warp, added 

 to that of one yarn of the weft ; and when these are equal, the thickness of the cloth 

 is double of that diameter. Denser cloth would not be sufficiently pliant or flexible. 



Fig. 1960 is a representation of 

 a section of cloth of an open fabric, 

 where the round dots which repre- 

 sent the warp are placed at a con- 

 siderable distance from eacli other. 



Fig. 1961 may bo supposed a 

 plain fabric of that description 

 which approaches the most nearly 

 to any idea we can form of the most 

 dense or close contact of which yarn 

 can be made susceptible. Here the 

 warp is supposed to be so tightly 

 stretched in the loom as to retain 

 entirely the parallel state, without 

 any curvature, and the whole flexure is therefore given to the woof. This mode of 

 weaving can never really exist ; but if the warp bo sufficiently strong to bear any 

 tight stretching, and the woof be spun very soft and flexible, something very near 

 it may be produced. This way of making cloth is well fitted for those goods which 

 require to give considerable warmth ; but they are sometimes the means of very gross 

 fraud and imposition ; for if the warp is made of very slender threads, and the woof of 



1960 



1961 



