TEXTILE FABRICS 



985 



of nearly three to one. On the other hand, it will appear, that four threads or 

 cylinders being thus put together in one solid mass, might be supposed only one 

 thread, or like the strands of a rope before it is twisted ; but, to remedy this, the 

 thread being shifted every time, the whole forms a body in which much agggregate 

 matter is compressed ; but where, being less firmly united, the accession of strength 

 acquired by the accumulation of materials is partially counteracted by the want of 

 equal firmness of junction. 



The second quality of the tweeled fabric, susceptibility of receiving ornament, arises 

 from its capability of being inverted at pleasure, as in Jig. 1966. In this figure, we 

 have, as before, four threads, and one alternately intersected ; but here the four 

 threads marked 1 and 2 are under the woof, while those marked 3 and 4 are above. 



Fig. 1967 represents that kind of tweeled work which produces an ornamental 

 effect, and adds even to the 



strength of a fabric, in so far 1966 



as accumulation of matter can 

 be considered in that light. The 

 figure represents a piece of velvet 

 cut in section, and of that kind 



which, being woven upon a tweeled 1967 



ground, is known by the name of 

 Genoa velvet. 1st. Because, by 

 combining a great quantity of 

 material in a small compass, they 

 afford great warmth. 2nd. From the great resistance which they oppose to external 

 friction, they are very durable. And, 3rd. Because, from the very nature of the 

 texture, they afford the finest means of rich ornamental decoration. 



The use of velvet cloths in cold weather is a sufficient proof of the truth of the 

 first. The manufacture of plush, corduroy, and other stuffs for the dress of those 

 exposed to the accidents of laborious employment, evinces the second ; and the 

 ornamented velvets and Wilton carpeting are demonstrative of the third of these 

 positions. 



In the figure, the diagonal form which both the warp and woof of cloth assume, is 

 very apparent from the smallness of the scale. Besides what this adds to the 

 strength of the cloth, the flushed part, which appears interwoven, at the darkly- 

 shaded intervals 1, 2, &c., forms, when finished, the whole covering or upper surface. 

 The principle, in so far as regards texture, is entirely the same as any other tweeled 

 fabric. 



Fig. 1968, which represents corduroy, or king's cord, is merely striped velvet. The 

 principle is the same, and the figure shows that the one is a copy of the other. The 

 remaining figures represent those kinds of work which are of the most flimsy and 

 open description of texture ; those in which neither strength, warmth, nor dura- 

 bility are much required, and of which openness and transparency are the chief 

 recommendations. 



Fig. 1969 represents common gauze, or linau, a substance very much used for 

 various purposes. The essential difference between this description of cloth and all 

 others, consists in the warp being turned or twisted like a rope during the operation 

 of weaving, and hence it bears a considerable analogy to lace. The twining of gauze 

 is not continued in the same direction, but is alternately from right to left, and vice 

 vcrsd, between every intersection 



of the woof. The fabric of gauze 1968 



is always open, flimsy, and trans- 

 parent ; but from the turning of 

 the warp, it possesses an un- 

 common degree of strength and 

 tenacity in proportion to the 

 quantity of material which it con- 

 tains. This quality, together with 

 the transparency of the fabric, 

 renders it peculiarly adapted for ornamental purposes of various kinds, particularly 

 for flowering or figuring, either in the loom or by the needle. In the warp of gauze 

 there arises a much greater degree of contraction during the weaving than in any 

 other species of cloth ; and this is produced by the turning. The twisting between 

 every intersection of weft amounts precisely to one complete revolution of both 

 threads : hence this difference exists between this and every other species of weaving, 

 namely, that the one thread of warp is always above the woof, and the contiguous 

 thread is always below. 





1969 



