TEXTILE FIBRES CONDENSED 987 



nearly; so that the figure upon the cloth -would bo very nearly of the same dimen- 

 sions as that upon the paper ; but if a 1,200 reed were used, instead of an 800, the 

 dimension would be proportionally contracted. 



A correct idea being formed of the design, the weaver may proceed to mount his 

 loom according to the pattern ; and this is done by two persons, one of whom takes 

 from the design instructions necessary for the other to follow in tying his cords. 



1974 



Fig. 1974 is a representation of the most simple species of table linen, which is 

 merely an imitation of chequer-work of various sizes ; and is known in Scotland, 

 where the manufacture is chiefly practised, by the name of ' dornock.' When a 

 pattern is formed upon tweeled cloth, by reversing the flushing, the two sides of the 

 fabric being dissimilar, one may be supposed to be represented by the black marks, 

 and the other by the part of the figure which is left \mcoloured. For such a pattern 

 as this, two sets of common tweeled-heddles, moved in the ordinary way, by a double 

 succession of heddles, are sufficient. The other part of fig. 1974 is a design of that 

 intermediate kind of ornamental work which is called diaper, and which partakes 

 partly of the nature of the dornock, and partly of that of the damask and tapestry. 



1975 



The principle upon which all these descriptions of goods are woven is entirely the 

 same, and the only difference is in the extent of the design, and the means by which 

 it is executed. Fig. 1975 is a design for a border of a handkerchief or napkin, 

 which may be executed either in the manner of damask, or as the spotting is practised 

 in the lighter fabrics. 



TEXTILE FIBRES CONDENSED. Mr. John Mercer's plan of transforming 

 cotton and flax into fibres of fine silky texture, while their strength and substance 

 are increased, excited much interest a few years since. He subjected them to the 

 action of drastic alkaline lye, sulphuric acid, or to solution of chloride of zinc, of 

 such strength and at such a temperature as produced certain remarkable changes in 

 them, quite the reverse of what most people would have expected. The mode of 

 operating according to this invention, upon cloth made wholly or partially of 

 any vegetable-fibres and bleached, is as follows : The cloth is passed through a 

 padding machine charged with caustic soda or caustic potash at 60 or 70 of 

 Twaddle's hydrometer, at the common temperature of the atmosphere (say 60 Fahr. 

 or under); then, without being dried, it is washed in water; and, after this, it is 

 passed through dilute sulphuric acid, and washed again. Or the cloth is conducted 

 over and under a series of rollers in a cistern containing caustic soda or caustic 

 potash at 40 to 50 Twaddle, at the ordinary temperature (the last two rollers being 

 set so as to squeeze the excess of soda or potash back into the cistern) ; and then 

 it is passed over and under rollers placed in a series of cisterns, which are charged 

 at the commencement of the operation with water only ; so that when the cloth 

 arrives at the last cistern, nearly all the alkali has been washed out of it. After 

 the cloth has either gone through the padding machine or through the cisterns, 

 it is washed in water, passed through dilute sulphuric acid, and again washed in 

 water. 



When grey or unbleached cloth, made from the above-mentioned fibrous material, 

 is to be treated, it is first boiled or steeped in water, so as to wet it thoroughly ; then 

 most of the water is removed by the squeezer or hydro-extractor ; and, after this, it 

 is passed through the soda- or potash-solution, &c., as before described. 



Warps, either bleached or unbleached, are treated in the same manner ; but, 

 after passing through the cistern containing the alkali, they are passed through. 



