CALEDONIA. 



211 



called, seem not to be considerable in any quarter 

 Caledonia. rO und the whole compass of the island ; or if the 

 ~*~ ' coast is any where left open to the sea, it is yet pro- 

 bable, that the environing bulwark of rocks is in 

 such situations rather cairicdout to a greater dis- 

 tance, so as not immediately to come into view, than 

 totally suspended. Several of these rocky excres- 

 cences are the production of a species of polypi. 

 Some of them appear to be of a more permanent 

 character, and of considerable magnitude. The Isle 

 of Pines derives its name from the abundant growth 

 upon it of that description of trees, which rr.ny here- 

 alter prove an important resource for shipping, in a 

 region generally so deficient as this is in such pro- 

 duce. The water around the coasts of this island is 

 generally deep, and, as might be expected from the 

 nature of the ground, abounds with fu.li, which the 

 native, safe within the barrier of the surrounding 

 rocks, can pursue with ease ai,d success in the slight- 

 est canoe. The variation of the needle, as observed 

 here and in the immediate vicinity, fluctuated chiefly 

 between 9 and 10 degrees towards the east. The 

 weather in those parts, during a course of from three 

 to four months that a register was kept of it, seems to 

 have been variable, most frequently moderate : The 

 winds in May, June, and July, were chiefly fromeasterly 

 points; but in the subsequent month, they were more 

 from the west. The mercury in the barometer stood 

 commonly from 28 in. 1 line and 4-10ths to 28 in. 

 J lines and 2-lOths. The heat was felt to be exces- 

 sive, but the degree indicated in Reaumur's thermo- 

 meter was never higher than 25 on shore, and 21 at 

 $ea. The tides were observed only once a day, when 

 the water rose in perpendicular height from four to 

 ive feet. 



The general aspect of the island of New Caledo- 

 nia is mountainous and lofty. A chain of hills runs 

 through the whole extent of the island, in the direc- 

 tion of its greatest length, consisting of three dis- 

 tinct rows or ridges, the breadth of which, taken to- 

 gether, is not less than 20 miles. These lines rise 

 above one another somewhat in the form of an am- 

 phitheatre, varying in elevation from 2000 to (.000 

 feet above the level of the sea. A detached moun- 

 tain rises above all the others, being upwards of 7000 

 feet in height. The principal component parts of 

 these masses, are quartz, mica, steatite more or less 

 hard, green schorl, granite, specular iron-ore, &c. 

 Garnets are also found, likewise layers of gold, ser- 

 pentine, hornblende, and talc. This island differs 

 from all the otherb which have hitherto been disco- 

 vered in the South Sea, by being entirely destitute 

 of volcanic productions. The soil upon the sides of 

 the hills is principally a yellow clay ; but this being 

 commonly but to a small depth, and very much in- 

 terrupted by deep ravines, rocky protuberances, and 

 other obstructions, they seem for the most part to 

 be little capable of cultivation, even in their lower 

 parts. Nearer to the summits, the farther impedi- 

 ment is of course added, of an untoward climate, ex- 

 tremely cold, and subject to violent and blasting 

 winds. Commonly, however, they are throughout 

 their whole extent coated with coarse grasses and 

 othtr plants, and here and there trees and shrubs. 

 Trees rising, in particular, from the bottoms of the 



VOL. V. PART J. 



gullies, by which the hills are every where furrowed, 

 agreeably relieve the eye amidst the general aspect of Caledonia, 

 barrenness, which otherwise prevail*. Some of the """ "v ^ 

 mountains arc even covered with trees to their very 

 topi ; and, in general, those elevated land* are the 

 copious source of numerous ttrearat, which, gliding 

 in all directions, and with every variety of appear- 

 ance over the face of the hills, at once beautify and 

 gladden the entire landscape, and hittrn to convey 

 to the subjacent plains, health, fertility, and die 

 means of improven eiit. The comparatively low- ly- 

 ing groundi, not only for the most part prevail over 

 the whole extent of the *ea coast, but itrclch, in parti- 

 cular directions, to a great distance between the hiilf. 

 Tru- con moo toil of these plains it a sandy black 

 mould. The mode of recruiting the strength of thu 

 Kind, by the application of manures, teems to be un- 

 known ; but the slower means of melioration, which 

 consists in allowing portions of it that have been ex- 

 hausted to remain for a time in a fallow state, i uni- 

 versally practised, and the ashes obtained afterwards, 

 in consequence of burning the grass, which had that 

 been suffered to over-run the surface, may to far have 

 the same effects, which in other countries are ain.eU 

 at by the introduction of such foreign substances 

 The cultivation, in general, is conducted here with 

 industry, and at the same time with considerable skill. 

 As is usual in China, and in the higher parts of A- 

 sia Minor, soil, which otherwise would not be suffi- 

 ciently permanent to ensure a crop, is secured and 

 supported by means of little walls built under it, and 

 the fruitfulness of arid spots is increased by leading 

 into them streams of water. The combination and 

 contrast, which is found in as great perfection here 

 as in many other parts, between the bold and stri- 

 king features of nature and the softer traces of art, 

 open a scene sufficiently picturesque ; consisting, oa 

 one hand, of the grand and imposing objects, both 

 in the island itself, and scattered over the coast, which 

 have been already enumerated ; on theothsr, of wind- 

 ing streams, agreeable plantations, and straggling vil- 

 lages. 



The vegetable productions of New Caledonia seem, 

 in general, to be the same which prevail commonly 

 in similar latitudes. Small clusters of fig, cocoa, or 

 other trees, usually surround the different hamlets, or 

 even single houses, serving at once for ornament and 

 shelter. In one or two instances, there were obser- 

 ved thick forests of cocoa trees ; but, upon the whole, 

 these seem to be rather scarce in the island. The 

 same may be said of the plantain and bread-truit trees, 

 particularly of the latter ; of which, notwithstanding 

 the attention that seemed to be paid to them where 

 they occurred, but few specimens were seen, and those 

 apparently of an inferior quality. Bananas, Caribbee 

 cabbages, and other plants of the arum tnbe, mela- 

 leuca trees, aleurites, and various plants of the pro- 

 tea: and bignonne families, are mentioned among the 

 productions that were observed here, at also some 

 species of hibisci, acanthi, casuarinz, and acrosticha. 

 The commersonia echinata, a tree that IS very fre- 

 quent in the Moluccas, was noticed ia the upper 

 grounds. There is a species of hypoxis that grow* 

 here sp >ntancously. Sugar canes, sweet potatoes, 

 and yams, also occur, tog, t.'ier with a species of bea 



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