s 



Jufa l<) k () th calenders. A patent for Scotland wai taken 

 for tin" ^li/iiipr calender ; and u;><>n a tri.il . f borne 

 :o years, it lias met with ihe entire approbation of those 

 who h:u been in habits of h 



;t. At one machine, by being wot kid day and 



.ible of glating nearly 1000 pieces of 



cloth of 28 yards each ia a week, it i* peculiarly 



adapted for the occasional hurry to which shippers 



arc sometimes unavoidably subjected. 



As a matter of accommodation, the different pro- 

 cesses of packing, cording of boxes, sheeting of 

 trunks, and in general all the arrangements prepara- 

 tory to shipments, and also the intimations and sur- 

 veys necessary for obtaining drawbacks, debentures, 

 or bounties, according to the excise laws, 

 rally conducted at the calenders where goods . 

 nUhcd, and these operations sufficiently accou. 

 the general meaning attached to the word. (j. n. ) 



CALENDULA, a genus of plants of ti, 

 Syngcnesia, and order Polygamia NVce: 

 BOTANY, p. DOS. 



CALIBER COMPASSES. S^i COMPASSES. 



CALICO, a spt cies i-f plain cotton cloth, the 

 knowledge of which is derived from the Indian ma- 

 nufacture, and the name from Calicut, the district in 

 India where they are chiefly manufactured. The 

 first attempts to manufacture calicoes in Britain, 

 were made in Lancashire, about the year 1772, and 

 that manufacture is now prosecuted there to immense 

 extent, chiefly for the use of the printers. Calico is mere- 

 ly plain or alternate woven cotton cloth, of an interme- 

 diate thickness, between those dense fabrics which are 

 used for sheeting, and the more flimsy texture which is 

 distinguished by the general appellation of muslin. 



In the process of weaving, there is nothing curious 

 to analy/e ; for it is so very easy, as to be among 

 the first essays which an apprentice is required to 

 make, in order to acquire some knowledge of the 

 first principles of the art which he may be afterwards 

 called to exercise in the most difficult and complica- 

 ted of its numerous branches. As an article of ge- 

 neral consumption, however, calico is an object of 

 immense consideration to those manufacturers and 

 merchants who produce and circulate printed goods 

 for general consumption. Of all the cloths which 

 are printed or stained by chemical and mechanical 

 means, calicoes, from their cheapness, form by very 

 far the largest proportion. Hence, if less objects of 

 technical investigation, they are infinitely more so of 

 mercantile and economical speculation. It is, there- 

 fore, to this particular branch of weaving, that the 

 attempts (for hitherto they can be called little more) 

 to weave by the application of mechanical power, 

 have in almost every instance been directed: for what 

 is technically termed shawl cloths, are merely calicoes 

 df a different breadth and fineness. 



The adaptation of yarn to the reed in the calico 

 manufacture, may be very easily fixed ; for, in ge- 

 neral, there is but one universal standard, at least in 

 Scotland. This is an 8-tO reed ; or, as it is gene- 

 rally termed, an eight and two porter. Hence, in 

 the Scottish phraseology, the term calico is seldom 

 used ; blank is more common, but this properly sig- 

 nifies the application of cotton -woof to linen \\arp. 

 Among operative weavers, an augkt and tn'a gene- 

 rally expresses the meaning without any addition. It 



C A I. 



may appear singular that MO intervals of a reed 

 should become an almost uiiivcr>J standard, whiUt 

 1 ion:. s the exact division by hundreds, which it 

 the usual mm: ting ; and its universal adop- 



iorrns a curious specimen of the meant of eco- 

 nomy fashionable at the time when it was adopted. 

 The manufacture being then upon a much less ex. 

 tensive tcaiethan it is now, and conducted with much 

 less attention to regular method, the reeds were often 

 constructed by porters of 20 splits each, and count- 

 ed by them. But the regular manufacturers finding 

 this practice (which subsisted chiefly among the cus- 

 tomer weavers, as they were t> rmrd, who were em- 

 ploved to weave up home-bpu'i yarn by industrious 

 housewives) to be very inconvenient in extensive 

 practice, and of little practical utility, abandoned it 

 in toto, and contented themselves with dividing the 

 hur.dnd into two equal parts. Upon thu division 

 their scale of prices was regulated, ri-j ctii.g all in- 

 termediate divisicns. But as the manufacture of ca- 

 lico appeared likely to become extensive, and also to 

 require the most scrupulous parsimony, by deducting 

 ten splits from the fifty which formed the half hun- 

 dred, they virtually reduced the price of weaving, 

 while the difference neither violated their established 

 usage, nor created discot.tent. 



Cotton yarn, about No. 24- or 26 of the water or 

 engine twist, is generally used for the warp, and 

 they regulate the appearance of the cloth so as to 

 appear either opener or denser in the fabric, by the 

 fineness and quantity of woof which they use. As 

 they wish to give every possible appearance of den- 

 sity to the fabric, the slack twined yarn spun by the 

 common hand-jenny is uaed for this purpose. 



In all the lighter kinds of cotton manufacture, in 

 order to smooth any projecting fibres of the woof, 

 it is generally woven in a wet state, which in some 

 respects answers the same end as the mucilage used 

 for dressing the warps ; but in the calico, and most 

 of the denser fabrics, it is woven perfectly dry, in 

 order that it may appear as oozy as possible, (j. D.) 



CALICUT, or m.ire properly COLIC DU, the 

 name of a kingdom of India on the coast ot Malabar, 

 which now forms a part of the possessions of the 

 East India Company. When Chrruman Permal re- 

 solved to end his days at Mecca, he divided the 

 country of Malabar among his nobles ; but having 

 nothing left to bestow on the ancestor of the Tamun, 

 he gave that chief his sword, and all the territory in 

 which the crowing ot a cock could be heard from a 

 small temple. This territory formed the original 

 dominions of the Tamuri, and was called Coltcoa* or 

 the cock crowing. The country was possessed by 

 the Tamun Rajas till the Mussulman invasion. It 

 was taken from Tij, poo by the East India Company, 

 in whose possession it still remains. A full account 

 of the statistics and commerce of this part of India 

 will be given under the article MALABAR, from very 

 recent and authentic sources of information. Seethe 

 following article. (w) 



CALICUT, or CAL.CODU, the capital of the an- 

 cient kingdom of the same n.inv-, situated on the coast 

 of Malabar. This town, which is chiefly inhabited 

 by Moplays, is about three 1 agues in circumference, 

 includ ng an extensive suburb, principally inhabi- 

 ted by fishermen. Calicut consists partly of houses 



