CEPHALONIA. 



Ceplulonia. able flavour, and the inhabitants can spare about 

 ^ -^- ' asks after supplying themselvea. Sonu- li- 



queurs, highly esteemed, are likewise made, which 

 , lor tin- most part, presented to persons in power 

 at Venice. 



Cephalonia is the largest of the Ionian islands, yet 

 the whole population does not exceed 70,000 souls, 

 dispersed in three small towns, and about I .'{() villages 

 or hamlets ; nor does it appear to be receiving any 

 accessions. Emigrations, on the contrary, are con- 

 stantly taking place, though the Venetian govern- 

 ment made great opposition to it. 



Argostoli, the chief town of this island, stands at 

 the foot of a hill, close to a bay of the same name, in 

 an insalubrious and disagreeable situation. Its whole 

 appearance exhibits incontestible evidence of the 

 effect of earthquakes ; and in addition to the ruins 

 diffusely scattered, many buildings are advancing to 

 rapid decay. Though the residence of the executive 

 government, it is an inconsiderable place, containing 

 a lazaretto and several convents. On the llth of 

 July, in the three successive years 176'5, 1766, and 

 1767, an earthquake is said to have been felt almost 

 exactly at the same hour, the last of which was par- 

 ticularly fatal to Argostoli. 



Lixuri, the second town, also stands close to the 

 sea, but in a more favourable situation, both for 

 health and commerce. The same earthquake, how- 

 ever, so destructive to Argostoli, also ravaged Lix- 

 uri. It now presents a heap of ruins, and the streets 

 are so much obstructed by them, that it requires 

 some address in the passenger to find his way. 



The fortress of Axo, which includes an inconsi- 

 derable town, was built by the Venetians in 1595, on 

 a hill two leagues from Argostoli. The hill being 

 lofty and precipitous, and accessible only by intri- 

 cate paths, there is an irregularity in the fortifica- 

 tions, which, though it might serve as a retreat to 

 the inhabitants, would preclude it from supporting a 

 siege. Below there is a small harbour, which the 

 earth and stones brought down from the hill by 

 heavy rains are gradually choking up. The cathe- 

 dral, which is small, and moderately decorated, stands 

 here, and also a public building for the accommoda- 

 tion of the governor of the island. 



When Cephalonia came under the dominion of the 

 Venetians, it was erected into an archbishopric ; but 

 some of the prelates claiming undue prerogatives 

 over the clergy of Zanto, excited great dissensions 

 in the church. These were terminated by a decree of 

 the senate, ordaining the election of an ecclesiastic of 

 the latter island, after two Cephalonians had succes- 

 sively occupied the archiepiscopal see. The elec- 

 tion is conducted with great ceremony and formality, 

 and formerly could not take place unless in presence 

 of the governor-general of the islands, and different 

 members of the state. 



There are no less than twenty-five monasteries and 

 nunneries on the island, one of which, a convent of 

 Greek nuns, is situated on a hill near the fortress 

 of Axo. Their church, in which they piously pre- 

 serve the remains of St Erasmus, is the best endowed 

 in Cephalonia. These relics, which they view with 

 particular veneration, are contained in a large silver 

 shrine, and exposed at festivals, or in times of public 

 calamity. 



Amidst such a redundance of religious houses, the 

 education of youth seems to be cultivated in no pub- 

 lic seminary. The natives, however, are not void of 



denire to promote some points of knowledge, and Cephalonlt. 

 in 1790 they founded an agricultural academy. '"""V* 1 ^ 



The only considerable manufactures in the island 

 are of cotton cloths, { there called dimito,) and ros- 

 solis. Being dyed blue, the former serve for ap- 

 parel to the Greeks, and from 160,000 to 170,000 

 yards are exported to the Venetian islands, the Mo- 

 rea, and Romelia. The latter is a strong liquor of 

 agreeable flavour, prepared from odoriferous herbs 

 abounding on the hills, but especially on Mount 

 Enos. Somewhat more than half the value of the 

 former is exported. 



The Cephalonians are an active and intrlligrnt race 

 of people, temperate, and industrious ; so that while 

 the neighbouring islanders are either overwhelmed 

 with indolence, or dissipating their wealth in luxuri- 

 ous or frivolous pursuits, they are providing stores 

 for future necessities. A project once formed, is 

 steadily maintaii ed, in opposition to every resistance 

 experienced, and the projector knows to adapt him- 

 self to all the circumstances which are likely to 

 promise success. Emigrating from their native soil, 

 the Cephalonians are frequently occupied during 20 

 or 30 years in seeking the means of independence, 

 which they return to their island to enjoy. There 

 hospitality is a leading characteristic ; strangers are 

 well received and entertained, and their presence is 

 courted. The people, in general, are fond of society, 

 and the women of the island enjoy unrestrained li- 

 berty. Nevertheless, to counterbalance the qualities 

 thus ascribed to them, it is said that the men are in- 

 triguing and vindictive, that they an- slow to pardon 

 an aggressor, and the harmony of social interc -urseis 

 interrupted by the virulence of party dissensions in 

 the towns. 



Several celebrated persons owe their birth to Ce- 

 phalonia. From modern history we learu, that in 

 the latter part of the seventeenth century, a Cepha- - 

 Ionian named Phaulkon was viceroy of the kingdom 

 of Siam, and formed an intercourse between that coun- 

 try and Europe. Phaulkon, who was sprung from 

 noble parentage, after first emigrating to England, 

 repaired to India, and was at length employed as a 

 factor at See-y-thaa, the capital of Siam. There he 

 realized a considerable fortune, which he vested in 

 commercial speculation, and embarked along with it 

 on a voyage for another country. He was ship- 

 wrecked, however, along with a Siamese of rank, who 

 saved nothing but his fife, and who, in gratrtude for 

 Phaulkon carrying him home in a bark which he had 

 purchased, affording him distinguished patronage, he 

 soon rose to the highest offices in the stati-, protected 

 the Jesuits who came from France, aixd sent a magni- 

 ficent embassy to Louis XIV. During some years 

 he enjoyed great prosperity, and always promoted a 

 connection with Europeans ; but endeavouring to 

 persuade the king of Siam, who was childless, to 

 adopt the son of a nobleman educated in the Chris- 

 tian religion, and being suspected of endeavouring to 

 bring the whole kingdom eventually under French 

 domination, a conspiracy was formed against him. 

 He was seized by a powerful minister of state, and 

 put to death with lingering torments in 1689. Ce- 

 phalonia has likewise more recently produced able 

 generals and mechanics. Of the latter, Count Car- 

 buri may be named, who accomplished the transpor- 

 tation of the rock to Petersburgh, which has received 

 the statue of the emperor Peter, and by whom a de- 

 tail of the whole procedure has been published. 



