CHINA. 



313 





Character European night-gowns ; and arc fastened before with 

 small round gilt buttons, which catch into little strings 

 on the opposite side, so as to make the coats double up- 

 on the breast. Beneath their upper robe, they have a 

 girdle fastened round the body, from which they suspend 

 a watch, a knife, and a purse or pouch, generally con- 

 taining a tobacco-box. They suffer their neck to re- 

 main uncovered during summer, but defend it from the 

 cold in winter, by a collar of peltry, silk, or velvet. 

 Their summer cap resembles an inverted funnel, lined 

 with silk, with a tuft of red hair, or raw silk, on the top, 

 hanging down on each side ; but the winter bonnet is 

 surrounded with a band of peltry. Instead of the bon- 

 net, they frequently wear at home, a kind of under cap 

 of embroidered silk, sometimes ornamented with a pearl 

 in the front. Their drawers, made of linen or silk, re- 

 semble generally those of Europeans. Their stockings 

 are of quilted silk or nankeen, appearing above the 

 boots, and bordered at the top with a ribband of silk or 

 velvet. Their shoes come high upon the fore part of 

 the ankle, and do not require to be tied. Their boots 

 are made of black satin or leather, and do not reach 

 higher than the calf of the leg. They are extremely 

 wide, and are frequently made to serve the purpose of 

 pockets, holding a fan, papers, &c. Th soles are re- 

 markably thick, composed of several folds of strong paper, 

 covered with one of leather. In winter, the Chinese put 

 on an immense load of clothes, sometimes, says Osbeck, 

 to the number of thirteen or fourteen robes ; and De 

 Guignes declares, that he has seen them so stuffed out with 

 clothing, that they could scarcely make their hands meet. 

 Bre of The dress of the women in the lower classes differs 



thewomcB. little from that of the men, consisting generally of a 

 blue cotton frock reaching to the knee, a pair of wide 

 trowsers or petticoats of red or yellow cloth, reaching 

 to the calf of the leg, and there drawn very tight, to 

 display the ankle and foot. The ankle is thick and 

 swollen in proportion as the foot is diminutive ; and is also 

 bandaged with rollers of party-coloured cloth, ornament- 

 ed with fringes and tassels ; while the little shoe is al- 

 most covered with tinsel and tawdry appendages. The 

 hair is screwed up close behind without taste, and folded 

 into a ridge or knot across the crown of the head, where 

 it is fastened by two bodkins of silver, brass, or iron, 

 placed conspicuously behind, in the form of an oblique 

 cross. A part of the hair of the unmarried women, how- 

 ever, U suffered to hang in short tresses round the head, 

 and that of a very young girl is left still more dishevel- 

 led. The women of Pekin, particularly, adorn their 

 hair with artificial flowers of a red, blue, or yellow co- 

 lour, generally resembling asters ; and those of the pro- 

 vince of Kiang-nan wear a very peculiar cap of peltry or 

 black satin, with a triangular peak in the front descend- 

 ing to the root of the nose, and adorned in the middle of 

 the forehead with a crystal button. In most places they 

 wear hats of different forms, commonly made of straw, 

 completely surrounded with a fringe of blue cloth. They 

 daub their face and neck with white paint ; tinge the eye- 

 brows black, in the form of an arch; and place a spot 

 of deep vermilion, about the size of a wafer, in the centre 

 of the lower lip, and at the point of the chin. They are 

 generally of the middle size, and slender figure, with a 

 thnrt nose, long eyes, and little mouth ; but their large 

 teeth are uniformly yellow from the constant use of to- 

 bacco and betel, and their skin, from the early use of 

 paint, ioon acquires an ugly appearance. It is a piece 



Characfcr 



and 

 Manner?. 



of dress, both of men and women of rank, to suffer the 

 nails of the left hand, especially of the little finger, to grow 

 to an extraordinary- length, in order to prove their gen- ^_ 

 tility, and to distinguish them from labourers and me- "i"* 

 chanics. M. De Guignes saw a mandarin, whose nails 

 were nearly six inches in length ; and a physician, who 

 had brought them to the length of nine, ten, and even 

 twelve inches. The nails are thus kept extremely clear 

 and transparent, and at night are carefully inclosed in 

 bamboo cases. The Chinese dresses are generally cheap, 

 chiefly formed of cotton, which grows in all the provin- 

 ces, or of silk, which is in some places almost equally 

 abundant ; so that the complete clothing 



L. s. d. 



Of a peasant costs about 015 



Of a tradesman 3 



Of a mandarin 10 



But a mandarin's dress of ceremony 30 



And those which are enriched with embroidery, 



and gold or silver tissue 200 or 300 



The Chinese rise at a very early hour, and the streets Mode of 

 in their cities are completely crowded at day-break, living. 

 They retire to take their evening meal at five or six 

 o'clock, and go to rest with the setting sun. They 

 have few social meetings among themselves ; and even 

 the young people never assemble together for the pur- 

 pose of athletic exercises, or exhilarating amusements. 

 To play at games of chance is the chief object of an 

 occasional company ; and a kettle of rice, a cup of tea, 

 or a pipe of tobacco, forms the only entertainment among 

 the great body of the people. The higher classes give Entertair.- 

 feasts and entertainments on particular occasions ; but, mews. - 

 in these, nothing approaching to conviviality or chearful- 

 ness appears ; and almost every action, motion, or look, 

 is regulated by the coldest forms of ceremony. The 

 guests do not assemble around the same table, and par- 

 take of the same dishes ; but a number of small tables - 

 are arranged in a line, each of which often accommodates 

 only one person, generally two, and rarely more than 

 three. This division of the company into small parties, 

 does not produce any greater freedom in eating, drink- 

 ing, or conversing ; but every one must wait for a par- 

 ticular signal or ceremony, at every drop or morsel which 

 he puts into his mouth. All eyes are constantly direct- 

 ed to the master of the feast, to observe his motions, and 

 to eat or drink after his example. The repast begins 

 with drinking to the health of the host ; and the polite 

 manner of paying this compliment is to lift the cup ii. 

 both hands as high as the forehead, after lowering il 

 again to carry it to the mouth, and after drinking deli- 

 berately to turn the cup downwards as a token of its 

 being emptied. Every one's portion of the different 

 dishes is measured out according to his rank, and placed 

 on the table before him ; and whatever remains after h< 

 has eaten, as well as the portion of any one who hci 

 been prevented from attending, is sent in procession to 

 his house. Several changes of plates and dishes takes 

 place, and two or three cups of wine or tea are drunk 

 during the repast ; and all the guests rise for a little, 

 before the desert be served up, when each resumes his 

 place. In this manner, four or five hours are commonly 

 employed, during which period a play or dance is some- 

 times exhibited for the amusement of the company. 

 Upon leaving the house, every one makes a small present 

 in money to the domestics ; and next day sends a note 

 of thanks to the person, who gave the entertainment.* 



" They swallow their food," says De Guignes, ' in a gluttonous manner; and drink indiscriminately out of all the cups, without 

 raring whether any one has used them before. Upon leaving the table, they prove, by every possible mode, that they have dined well; 

 and even account it a point of pouteaess to give, in this manner, to Ilie roaster of the home, marks of their/uU satisfaction." 

 VOL. VI. PAIIT I. 2 H 



