D Y E I N 0. 



299. If a poppy or fire colour is to be given, the 

 silk must !>e first M-ouml as tor white, and then receive 

 a slight annotta ground ; hut it inu.-t not l>e id timed. 

 Bright orange red, find deep cherry colour*, are treated 

 in the same way as poppy colour, except that they have 

 nut the annotta ground. The lighter cherry colours, 

 rose colours of every shade, and flesh colours, are made 

 from baths of the second and third running of the car- 

 thamus, which are weaker than the first. The light- 

 est of all these shades, which is a very pale flesh co- 

 lour, requires a little soap to be put into the bath : this 

 softens the colour, and prevents it from taking too 

 quickly or unevenly. 



293. The baths of carthamus are used as soon as they 

 are prepared, and as quickly as possible, as their co- 

 lour loses much by keeping ; and indeed, after some 

 time, entirely disappears. They are also used cold, 

 because the red feculae lose their colour by exposure to 

 heat 



III. Proceuetfor Dyeing Cotton and Linen Red. 



Cufl.ineaL 2<H. Cochineal, which, by the aid of the oxides of 

 tin, imparts the most beautiful of all dyes to wool, 

 communicates to cotton and linen a colour which pos- 

 sesses neither beauty nor durability. If cotton be im- 

 pregnated, however, with the aluminous mordant, it 

 receives, when dyed with cochineal, a very beautiful 

 crimson, capable of bearing several washings, and of 

 resisting, for some time, the action of the air, though 

 not long enough to deserve the appellation of a fast co- 

 lour. 



Madder. 295. Madder is therefore usually employed for dye- 



ing reel, and its various shades, ujxin cotton and linen ; 

 and in this respect it is certainly the most useful of all 

 colouring substances. Its affinity for linen is more feeble 

 than for cotton, but the processes which are employed 

 for fixing it upon the one, are found to answer best 

 when applied to the other ; we shall accordingly make 

 no distinction between them. 



'2!i. The madder red communicated to cotton, is 

 distinguished into two kinds : the one is called simple 

 madder red, and the other, which is much brighter, and 

 more permanent, Turkey, or Adrianople red. Both 

 are dyed upon the aluminous basis, but with a con- 

 siderable difference in the subordinate parts of the pro- 

 cess. 



Common 297. Madder reds also differ greatly, both in beauty 



madder and permanency, according to the processes employed. 

 "* For the common madder red, linen or cotton, after be- 



Mordaau ing boiled in a weak lixivium of potash or soda, is to 

 be macerated in a decoction of powdered galls, in the 

 proportion of four ounces to every pound of linen or 

 cotton to be dyed. After it is duly impregnated with 

 the solution ot galls, and dried, the stuff is alumed, by 

 soaking it thoroughly in a saturated lukewarm solution 

 of alum, employed also at the rate of four ounces to 

 each pound of linen or cotton, the excess of sulphuric 

 acid having been previously neutralized in the alum, 

 by adding to the solution an ounce of soda for every 

 pound of alum. When this has been done, the stuff is 

 moderately wrung ; it is then dried, and afterwards 

 alumed a second time, dissolving for that purpose half 

 as much alum as for the first aluming, and adding to it 

 the residue of the former solution. After this second 

 aluming, it is again well dried, and then rinsed, to re- 

 move the superfluous alum which has not united itself 

 to the stuff. The acetate of alumine may be sub- 

 stituted for common alum, with greater advantage to 



the process, but it would be attended with more ex- Praetstm' 

 pence. 



208. The linen or cotton having been thus impreg- 

 nated with the aluminous basis, is to be tlyi-tl with the 

 lx->t crop madder, at the rate of three-fourth" of a 

 pound for each pound of stuff. The heat of the bath 

 is gradually raised, so as to make it begin to \tn\\ in 

 al>ont fifty minutes, or at iiio^t an hour; after the \wi\- 

 ing has continued a very few minutes, the stuff is ta- 

 ken out, and slightly rinsed ; it is then <lyxl a second 

 time in the same manner, and with the same quantity 

 of madder. After the . second dyeing, followed by the 

 usual rinsing and drying, it is commonly thought ex- 

 pedient to steep the linen or cotton in a lukewarm so- 

 lution of soap, in the proportion of about two ounces 

 of the latter to each pound of stuff, in order to give 

 greater brilliancy to the red colour, and remove all the 

 uncombined colouring matter. The process is completed 

 by rinsing and drying as usual. 



299- The Adrianople or Turkey red possesses a great- Adriannpie 

 er degree of brightness than the common madder red, >" Turk, i 

 and resists more powerfully the effects of different re- rrtl - 

 agents, such as alkalies, acids, alum, and soap. It ap- 

 pears, from the inquiries of l)r Bancroft, respecting 

 this beautiful dye, that the complicated process by which 

 the Turkey red can alone be dyed, was long ago prac- 

 tised, and perhaps invented, by the inhabitants of Ma- 

 labar and Coromandel ; that a knowledge of it was car- 

 ried from India to Persia, Armenia, Syria, and Greece, 

 and after a long interval to France, in consequence of 

 the accounts transmitted at different times, by the 

 French ambassadors resilient at Constantinople, of the 

 means employed to dye this red, particularly at Adria- 

 nople. See Phil. I'crm. Col. vol. ii. p. H6. 



300. The Abbe Mazeas published some experiments 

 concerning this dye, which threw a considerable light 

 on the subject, and the French government, from the 

 information it received, published, in 1765, an instruc- 

 tion under the title of A Memoir containing the procets 



for dyeing spun cotton of the same scarlet red as that of 

 the Adriannpie cotton. The directions given in this 

 memoir, were first attempted to be reduced to practice 

 at Rouen, or near that city; but, for a considerable 

 time, with very little success. At present, however, 

 the Turkey red* is supposed to be dyed in that part of 

 France as beautifully and durably, as in Greece or any 

 part of the Ottoman empire. The steps of the process 

 are carried on, with considerable modifications, in dif- 

 ferent manufactories, but as they are generally kept se- 

 cret, we have little means of selecting those which have 

 been found to answer best. The following description 

 is given by Berthollet of the method followed by M. 

 Clere, who had the management of a manufactory at 

 Vaudreuil, and sent him patterns of his cotton dyed of 

 a beautiful and durable red : 



301. " When a hundred pounds of cotton are to be M 



dyed, we must begin by scouring it well. This opera- proe 

 tion consists in boiling the cotton in a ley of soda, mark- 

 ing one degree of the areometer, to which is commonly 

 added the remainder of the bath, which has been em- 

 ployed for passing the cottons through for the white 

 preparation called sic/don. 



" In order to scour the cotton properly, and prevent 

 it from entangling, a cord is passed through three hanks, 

 each of which weighs a pound, and it is thrown into the 

 ley when it begins to boil; it is carefully immersed, 

 that it may not be scorched by the upper part of the 

 caldron, which should contain about 150 gallons of 





